Hyltebergen was Göteborg’s first real sport climbing area. You’ll find some of the city’s hardest routes here. There are even some relatively easy bolted routes in the area. The area consists of nine crags.
ASPECT AND CLIMATE
The crags are facing either south or west and are in the sun for most of the day. Indeed, very good for spring or autumn climbing but quite frustrating in the heat of the summer.
Gnats can be a problem during May-June.
For more details see each crag's description.
THE ROUTES
Most of the routes in the area are bolted and equipped with lower-offs. The bolting is mostly of high quality. The length of the routes varies between short, powerful lines and quite long, pumping pitches. Most of the routes are vertical (+/- some degrees). For more details, see each crag's description.
THE SECTORS
PARADISET
Paradiset is a rather small crag (the routes are up to 10 m long) with three nice but quite short bolted routes and some quite dirty, seldom climbed trad pitches. The bolted routes are equipped with lower-offs while the trad ones aren’t. The crag is facing southeast, shaded by trees and dries very slowly.
ÖVRE ÖVRE HYLTEBERGET
The latest addition to the area. Small, south facing crag with mostly bolted routes in the lower and mid grades. The crag is open and dries rather fast.
ÖVRE HYLTEBERGET
A crag which in its left part consists of a number of short but nice and bolted routes and in its right part of some naturally protected pitches plus one excellent bolted face climb (all routes are about 10 m long). The bolted routes are equipped with lower-offs. The left part of the crag is facing southwest while the right part is facing south. Both parts are not directly shaded and the routes dry fast.
ÖVRE ÖSTRA HYLTEBERGET
A small crag (about 10 m height) above the sector Plockepinn which consists of some various climbs (easy and difficult, bolted and naturally protected). All routes are equipped with lower-offs. The crag is facing south, partially shaded by trees and dries fast.
EN TRAPPA UPP
The area's smallest crag with some short (up to 10 m) but quite nice bolted routes. All routes have lower-offs but unfortunately some of them are placed to high which makes them pretty unusable for top roping. The crag is facing southwest, is open and gets dry very fast. A perfect place for climbing during chilly but sunny spring or autumn days.
PLOCKEPINN
A south and west facing sector which is often wet. The routes are about 15 m long. All bolted routes are good and equipped with lower-offs. The trad route is dirty and almost never climbed (no loweroff here). The three routes in the middle of the crag are bolted for “dry tool” climbing but are also climb-able as plain sport climbing routes (therefore the double grades).
RULLTRAPPAN
A small sector mainly developed during 2017. The routes here are short, bolted and equipped with lower-offs. The crag is facing west and dries slowly.
FOREX
A sector with short (about 10 m), hard and mostly bolted routes (only one of them is mixed) equipped with lower-offs. The crag is facing west, shaded by trees and dries rather slowly.
HYLTEBERGET
The biggest crag of the area with some long, difficult and nice bolted routes which all have lower-offs. The trad routes are seldom climbed, very dirty and have no lower-offs. The routes are between 10 and 25 m long.
The crag is situated very close to the residential area so please keep a very low profile while climbing here.
The crag is facing south and west, partially shaded by trees and dries relatively slowly.
NEDRE HYLTEBERGET
Another nice but small (10-15 m height) spring and autumn crag with bolted, mixed and naturally protected routes. The bolted routes are equipped with lower-offs. The crag is facing south but is partially shaded by the trees (most sun in the afternoon). The routes dry relatively fast.
