Description

No people live at Isoniittu, but an Eurasian eagle owl does. You could hear it hooting during spring evenings, if you were allowed to visit the crag in springtime. But you aren't. Steer clear of Isoniittu main wall between February 15th and June 15th.

The main wall of Isoniittu is not too tall. Instead, this gem found by Juha Suikkala offers you a great deal varied climbing in cracks and on face. Some of the intriguing walls have been bolted, a rarity in Kustavi in and of itself. Isoniittu is a perfect place for the one who likes cruising cracks. Most of the cracks are easy to climb and to protect. The sport routes have been bolted in a way that lets you focus on climbing. You can find top anchors on selected spots.

On the West side of the field stands a separate rock face, the shady Nostalgia sector. Even if only seven routes, many say you'll find the finest routes of Isoniittu in here. The main wall is for those who want to top many routes in day. The Western wall calls for those nostalgia-inclined climbers who are strong enough to walk to the cliff via the edge of the forest, or are serene enough to wait until the harvest before walking through the fields.

https://jammi.net/kalliot/kustavi/isoniittu/index.html

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Educate yourself by getting familiar with Kustavi's unique 5-step trad protection grading system, invented by the original jammi.net topo collection team:

* Teddy bear (pro1): You can get bomb-proof gear wherever you want, the whole route is easily protected.

* Alpine ibex (pro2): Not as obvious as Teddy bear. You have to spot the good places for protection. You may even need some micro-size gear.

* Monkey (pro3): Something suspicious. There may be some bad placements, big runouts or limited visibility to the crack to complicate putting the placements.

* Lizard (pro4): Needs true boldness. Crux moves on the most suspicious placements, route-length lead falls, critical runouts.

* Spider (pro5): Regardless having the most accurate and innovative protection gear in your rack, there is obivous risk of injury. The best protection for a pro5/spider graded route is a full commitment to a successful ascent.

https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/varmistettavuus.html

Isoniittu

Climbing has been limited!

Huuhkajan pesinnän vuoksi kiipeily on kielletty joka vuosi 15.2.-15.6. (ei koske Nostalgia-sektoria).

No climbing at Isoniittu between Feb 15th and June 15th (except Nostalgia sector) due to nesting of the Eurasian eagle owl.

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General access and climbing instructions for Kustavi climbing:

- Always behave politely - the local people you encounter at the crag may be the landowner.

- No littering.

- No campfires.

- No camping at the climbing crags. This is a preemptive recommendation to avoid access issues due to high amount of climbers visiting the island.

- There are plenty of nice options for accommodation in Kustavi. Check out Visit Kustavi web pages (in finnish):
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/majoitusvaihtoehdot/
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/leirintaalueet/
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/yksityismajoitus/

- When parking the cars, use some common sense and do not block any roads or access to the fields. If the marked parking space is full, find some other.

-Chipping routes is prohibited. However, there may be some loose blocks or flakes, which can be dislodged if considered a security risk.

-Unclimbed lines are free for everyone to establish new routes, if not marked as reserved project. Guideline is to reserve maximum of one project per climber per one crag per one season. After one season the project reservation is released.

-When establishing a new route, the first ascensionist is expected to clean the route thoroughly.

-There are some older routes left unclimbed for many years, gathering moss. Bring your wire brush and get some respect from climbing community by retro-cleaning and climbing the forgotten gems!

https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/kaytannot.html