This northeast-facing, impressive wall overlooking the sea is ideal for climbing in the hot season. Located between Kyparissi and Fokiano Beach, it’s also a convenient choice as either a starting point or final stop when coming to or leaving Leonidio.
Kapsala offers some of the best mid-grade climbing in the area, with outstanding 7a routes on beautiful red and yellow-streaked rock. The climbing features ergonomic pockets that feel like they were made for your hands, fun, flowy, and highly rewarding.
However, like many other sectors developed by the ClimbGreece/Kyparissi team, the bolts used were not up to UIAA standards. This makes Kapsala a strong candidate for early rebolting.
On the bright side, if rebolting is handled properly, there's potential to improve bolt placements and enhance route quality, a task well suited to experienced and thoughtful bolters.
Description
History
As part of the funded initiative to develop a “climbing park” with multiple sectors in and around Kyparissi, routes in this sector were bolted in 2016 by C. Remy, A. Theodoropoulos, and D. Titopoulos.
Unfortunately, despite previous lessons from other seaside sectors, the team chose to use standard 10mm A4 steel bolts, material known to be susceptible to Stress Corrosion Cracking (SCC). Even in the relatively mild seaside conditions of this region, A4 bolts are not considered appropriate or durable over time.
This decision significantly impacts the long-term safety and sustainability of the sector and highlights the need for rebolting with suitable, marine-grade materials in the near future.
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