Description

🧗‍♂️ There are plenty of climbing spots in Sweden, but »Kjugekull« is by many considered as one of the country's best areas for bouldering! It's located next to the large lake "Ivösjön", and sits there as the center-piece of the region surrounded by numerous smaller areas — in total racking up over 3000 climbs, half of which are found in Kjuge! The area's large freestanding boulders are dispersed in dense clusters throughout the beautiful forest, making it compact yet extensive. There are a life-time of problems to test your skills on, in all grades and styles — on perfect Swedish granite!

Over the years Kjugekull has gotten the infamous reputation of being a bit stiff in the grades, sandbagged or just simply put: "tough on the ego". There might very well be some real ground to that statement, however there are also several other factors which play a major role in the climbing at Kjuge. First of all the general style of climbing is rather technical, and it can take some time getting used to the holds and the body positioning required. Second the rock is relatively friction dependent, meaning that you might cruise a climb in the winter, whilst no having a chance during the summer. Having said all of this, Kjugekull also has a rich history of sandbagging, especially during "the golden years" when the majority of climbs were being put up. During this period no one wanted to stick their neck out and propose the lofty grade of 7C (much like the 'Bleausards' in Fontainebleau, who were reluctant to suggest the first 8th grade), this resulted in an almost comical amount of pretty stiff 7B+ boulders. So, don't feel too bad if you get shut down on one of those :)

➡️ Top 100 list:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_B4msOiupGdst2TktklMcE4gQHJrjmW2/view?usp=sharing

💎 Classics
THE OLD FOREST
▪️ Hajfena – 5+
▪️ Mijares – 6A+
▪️ Linds långa linje –6B+
▪️ Monolith – 7A+
▪️ Imperator – 7B+
▪️ Alla vill till himmelen... – 7C+

THE FIELDS
▪️ Ängsareten – 5+
▪️ Mandomsprovet – 6A
▪️ Struts är struts – 6C+
▪️ Fina areten – 7A
▪️ Sonic – 7B+
▪️ Huggsexa sit – 8A+

CENTER
▪️ Schweizerosten – 5
▪️ Gastonareten – 6A
▪️ Flaming star – 6C
▪️ Ahab – 7A+
▪️ Moby Dick – 7B+

THE VIEWPOINT
▪️ Duck – 5+
▪️ Daniels kluriga sva – 6A+
▪️ Silikon – 6C
▪️ Det gåtfulla folket – 7B
▪️ K.O. sit – 7C

EAST
▪️ Dumbo – 6C
▪️ Baltazar – 7A+
▪️ Våroffer – 7B
▪️ Aerodynamiten låg – 8A

THE NEW FOREST
▪️ Snakes and ladders – 5+
▪️ Perssons dyno – 6A+
▪️ Mini Ghetto – 6B
▪️ Fubbick – 6C+
▪️ Stearin – 7B
▪️ Kung Fu – 7B
▪️ Crescendo – 7C

FAR SOUTH
▪️ Splinter – 6A

Kjugekull

The area is access sensitive!

❗️IMPORTANT INFO❗️

🚫 Camping is prohibited in the entire area (including the parking).
🌳 Kjugekull is a nature reserve – respect the vegetation and the wildlife.
🤫 In general try to keep a low profile.
🗑 Remove all of your trash!
🧹 Brush off tickmarks and excessive chalk!
🚽 There is a toilet close by the café. Use it when necessary!