Description

Large west-facing wall with a marvellous view over the Kalvfjärden Bay.
This adventurous crag offers naturally protected and quite demanding climbs in a fantastic and beautiful natural environment. Here are a number of nice and a bit tough classics that are sometimes more or less serious to lead. You should probably be a pretty ambitious and skilled traditional climber knowing how to rappel, lead, and build stands with your own gear. Although there are a couple of easy well-protected routes as well. There are some old bolts and pitons here and there, but as said, they are old these days and it's up to you to judge what they are worth. Don't expect to tick off a whole lot of routes when here as it takes some time just to get to know the crag and know your way around.

This piece of rock is characterized by various slabs, corners and arêtes that lead up to a respectable roof formation at the top along the entire wall. The quality of the stone is quite good but beware as there are many formations which still seem pretty loose. Also, note that you arrive at the crag from above and you have to rappel down.

Klövberget forms an approximately 1 km long west-facing wall that largely goes straight down into the sea, however, the entire main wall has solid ground beneath. This is a wonderful spring or autumn crag, especially on calm and sunny days, when a visit really is recommended. Some routes could be a bit dirty here and there, so bring a brush.

History

History: By Claes Jelinek. Translated by Mikael Widerberg.
Tyresö's largest crag, Klövberget, got its first route through Per Sandström, who in 1976 climbed the striking and beautiful Pers spricka. A couple of years later, Lasse Cronlund and Svadängs dug out the magnificent Skamvrån. The two rocky mountain heroes also opened Överhuvudtaget, Shangri-La and Den Långa flykten. Later, Liliemark made a number of classics including Hemorrojdführer, Rampljus, Analfissüren and the phenomenal roof crack The final cat. Liliemark and Lars Möller were the first to receive the obligatory scratch marks on their arms when they fought for the unlikely Total kollaps.

Klövberget

The area is access sensitive!

Klövberget is part of Klövberget's nature reserve from the year 2015. It is forbidden to drill new holes for bolts. You can apply to the municipality to replace old bolts, but then the old boreholes must be used (and they are most likely only 8mm holes). It is also forbidden to mount fixed anchors around trees and to arrange camps for over 40 people.
Park according to the instructions in this guide. Just to the left on the crag (seen from the front) is a plot whose owner does not appreciate climbers. It is not allowed to enter the plot. For the same reason, there is a climbing ban for the handful of routes that lie to the left of Skamvrån and that start from the hill (these routes are not drawn in this guide) which means it's okay to climb all the routes seen in the topo here on 27 crags.

Directions:
From Stockholm, take Road 73 south and turn off into Road 229 (Tyresövägen) heading towards Tyresö. Pass Mcdonalds (seen on the right side of the road) and after a few km you will come out on the Tyresö peninsula (Tyresöalvön). The road now has changed its name to Breviksvägen. Continue about 1,7 km and turn right into Nytorpsvägen. Follow Nytorpsvägen another 1,7 km until it ends and take a left onto Tegelbruksvägen. From Tegelbruksvägen, turn onto Mokärrsvägen. After about 500 meters there is a parking space right about the road, with an information sign about the nature reserve. Park here!

From parking:
Follow the path south for about 100 meters and turn right at the post with a blue marking, and follow the path that leads up the hill. Continue to follow the path and the posts. At the sixth post (which is located just after you go down a bit), you turn off towards the water and the crag. Go north along the cliff about 50 m and a low bushy pine is a few meters from the edge. There is an exposed descent about 15 m away that ends at Skamvrån, but ignore it, it's quite awkward and rather bushy. It is better to leave the packing on top and rappel from the bushy pine above the route Skamvrån.

SL:
Bus from Slussen. Get off at Tegelbruksvägen and then walk according to the map.