Peacefully located crag along a winding small road out on Djurö/Vindö in the Stockholm archipelago. This crag is about 80 meters long, 8-12 m high and the reddish wall is of unusually good quality. The left part of the crag is extremely formation-rich with alternating overhanging outer and inner corners that are arched in a very exciting and unusual way.
The right part of the crag has some formations and a couple of cracks but is not as grippy and steep as the left part.
This crag is located about 50 km from Stockholm, but it is still absolutely worth a visit although you should be in decent shape and be able to climb around 7a-7b to get the most out of a stay. Most of the routes are quite bouldery.
It is possible to bring children here as the ground is flat, but you have to be a little careful so they don't run out on the road (although it's not that close). There are two slabby really easy beginner routes that might work for the kids etc. Watch out for ticks, as usual.
Keep in mind that parking possibilities near the crag are limited. There is basically only room for two cars next to an “electrical house”. The land at the electrical house is on private land but it doesn't belong to the houses visible around, but the house owners say it's ok for climbers to park there.
Environment:
Southwest facing. Located along a winding small road, but partly hidden behind the trees. Should work great as a spring crag before the leaves bloom. Large foliage can also provide some shade here and there on the left side of the wall on hot sunny days. The sun comes on the wall at about 10:30.
