Description

A great area with lots of good problems in various grades and styles. The area has easy access and short approach to the boulders. The rock quality is good and there are lots of crimps and cracks.

Recommended problems
⭐ The Edge (6A) - Sharp overhanging edge
⭐ Monolith in reverse (6B) and Lost in the Flood (6A) - Two easier cracks
⭐ Tudor (6C) and Tudor traverse (7A)
⭐ Hans Landa (7A) - Slightly overhanging problem on rails with crimps.
⭐ Trandansen (7A+) - Harder than it first seems
⭐ Dutor (7A+)
⭐ Fotspår (7B) and the sit start "I Linus fotspår" (7C)
⭐ Mytharc (7A+) - Nice slopers that require good friction.
⭐ Arkiv X - Fight the future (7A) - Powerfull overhang problem
⭐ Arkiv X - I want to believe (7B) - Overhang problem following holds in a thin crack
⭐ To kill a mockingbird (7C) - A hard sit start

Best season is usually early spring. The boulders on the old clear-cut can dry fast after rain while the ones in the forest will take some time to dry. The inverse is true for hot and sunny days where the shaded forest boulders can be OK to climb while the boulders on the clear-cut will be extra hard.

The landings are generally good. But on some problems an extra pad or two is recommended.

Bring a brush! Since it is an old area some of the problems may not have been climbed for a while and may need cleaning.

History

First developed late -00 and early -10 where many of the best problems got ascents or at least projected. The name comes from being on the other side of the river from "main Långaström".

Some early problems with their name (if they were given one) and first ascender have been lost in time. Then more problems have been developed over the years and some of the early project has been sent.

The area still has lots of boulders with possible problems waiting for ascents.

Routes on Långaström - Andra sidan
85 boulder 2 Likes
4315412585+146A96B86C107A27B37C8A8B8C9A
Browse topos
Photos
Premium topo by Sloper
Carl-Johan Fredriksson
C. Fredriksson
from Kalmar, Sweden
Patrick Siebert
P. Siebert
from Kalmar
Martin Bexell
M. Bexell
See all members
Other Premium topos by Sloper 75
Långaström - Andra sidan

The area is access sensitive!

"Långaström - Andra sidan" is a 22 minutes drive from Kalmar via Tvärskog, 15 minutes from Nybro and about 12 minutes from Påryd.

The boulders are located close to houses and farms. The area is used for recreation, horseback riding, hunting and so on. So keep a low profile,

🚙 If you are in Kalmar: Take E22 towards Malmö. Follow signage towards Tvärskog. When reaching Tvärskog turn towards Nybro and after driving through Tvärskog turn left to Långaström. In Betekulla, just before Långaström, take a left turn towards Påryd. After 550 meters turn right to the small forest road.

🚗 If you are in Nybro: Take road 25 towards Kalmar and follow the signs towards Tvärskog. After passsing Högebo take a right turn towards Alsjöholm. After 4.3 km turn left towards Alsjöholm and then in the next intersection turn right towards Påryd. After 550 meters turn right to the small forest road.

🚘 If you are in Påryd: Drive road 520 towards Kalmar then turn to Runtorp. After 5.3 km, just after passing the road to Lövshult, turn left to the small forest road.

🅿️ After 900 meters on the forest road there is a large parking spot on the right hand side of the road.

🚶🏽‍♀️🚶 Approach paths are marked on the map. For the main areas follow the small tractor road north-east and when reaching the old clear cut turn left and walk north-west. Here you can see "Hands Landa" and the X-files boulder. To reach the boulders in the forest to the north continue along the small path. To reach the "Hidden blocks" from the parking continue along the forest road 60 meters and the blocks are 15 meters in the forest on your right.

🗺️ The forest road is marked on the map together with the parking spot and suitable approach paths.

Remember! To prevent access issues:
• Follow "Allemansrätten". Be very careful to not hurt tree plants or other sensitive vegetation.
• Drive carefully and park where you don't block access for other vehicles.
• Do not litter.
• Keep a low profile.
• Remove tick marks and excessive chalk on holds.
• Be observant of any hunting in the area. If there is hunting going on then do not climb. Avoid the area during the first week(s) of elk hunting season which starts October 8.