Description

The Lappnor area hosts many established sectors with superb routes and really good rock quality. The best concentration of quality climbing is at the Risteys-area that provides a great playground for a climber. There are many easier and harder routes to challenge and entertain both new and experienced climbers for multiple visits. The rock type there is mostly some smooth igneous rock, most probably granodiorite.

The Block Work -boulder has excellent overhanging problems from 7A to 7C that require finger strength and technique. The Incredible Mulk is a very charismatic and intimidating 7A that should be on everyone's tick list. There are many great grade 6 routes around these two blocks. Most liked are Smoothie 6B and Jopokantti 6A.

Masto sector has 4 block around a tall telecommunications mast. Many go there to try Folkhälsan 7B+ which, confusingly, has the same name AND grade than another route at the Block Work. Punainen Härkä block offers 3 good 6A routes.

The Happy Auer -area is the home of Burden of Dreams, the world's first 9A boulder. The rock is somewhat slippery in this sector and the routes require good technique and some stubbornness. Kesäläski is a great overhanging problem with many heel and toe hooks. The rock here is mostly red orbicular granite, which is beautiful but not the most pleasant to climb on.

Kahdeksas Luukku sector requires a little longer hike, but is definitely worth it if you climb 7B routes.

History

Climbing at Lappnor started at around 2009. Most FA:s done here are between 2009-2017:ish. The block containing Burden of Dreams was found by Marko Siivinen in 2013. The line was spotted almost immediately, but unlike the other FA's they made in the area, this project he couldn't complete a single move successfully.

Thankfully, they contacted Nalle Hukkataival, Finland's bouldering super star. This line was attempted by them ever since, until a fateful night, 24.10.2016, they managed to do the first ascent. The grade offered was 9A, and according to Nalle's track record and amount of effort that went into climbing the route, 9A seemed quite possible. The grade and the line seemed quite futuristic, but only time would tell how far ahead of the crowd Nalle was.

It would take five more years, until the next confirmed 9A ascent would take place and seven until we saw the second ascent of BoD by Will Bosi in 12.4.2023. This ascent confirmed the grade, and really cemented how futuristic this boulder was for it's time.

As of writing (April 2025), BoD has had only four ascents, even with a lot of attention from prolific 9A boulderers.

The ascentionists are:

1. Nalle Hukkataival, 24.10.2016
2. Will Bosi, 12.4.2023
3. Simon Lorenzi, 27.12.2023
4. Elias Iagnemma, 26.3.2024