Description

A large and popular crag with a lot of nice and long routes. Lexby is mostly visited because of its trad routes (you will find Göteborg’s hardest trad routes here) and two long bolted multi-pitch routes.

ASPECT AND CLIMATE
The crag is mostly facing south (2 sectors are facing southwest). Its lower part is shaded by trees and the routes here dry slower (but still relatively fast) than on the open upper part. As always, the cracks get dry more slowly than the face climbs.

THE ROUTES
Climbing in Lexby is mostly slabby and vertical. There are both naturally protected and bolted routes in most grades. The bolted ones are equipped with lower-offs while only some of the trad ones have lower-offs. There are a number of lower-offs at the top of the crag. The routes are up to 70 m.
Lexby is most known for its hard trad routes and bolted multi-pitches (the later are often climb several days during good weather).

THE SECTORS
Bäckarna and Sometimes are relatively new sectors with mostly bolted routes in easier grades.
Multipitch is mostly known for its long (up to 70 m) routes of which Så som i himmelen is the best with daily ascents.
Extaz is the sector just left of the fence (very close to the houses, keep very low profile). most of the routes here are naturally protected.
Stracciatella is to the right of the fence with a mix of bolted and naturally protected routes.
Hyllorna is a complex ledge system above sector Stracciatella. The routes here are short. There are bolted routes in the sector, but the naturally protected ones dominate. There are also a number of lower-offs in this area for top rope climbing. You can also find a set up for highlining in the area.
Stora väggen is unfortunately divided by a big ledge in the middle. The lower part is most about hard bolted and mixed routes while the upper part is a heaven for trad climbers with some of the guide's best (and hardest) naturally protected routes.
Höger is just right of Stora väggen and is a high sector with some easy naturally protected routes.
Lexby gård and Partille Arena are two recently (2018) developed sectors in the right part of Lexby. There are both naturally protected and bolted routes at these sectors.

History

Climbing in Lexby has been done since 1970's but not much is known form that time. Without doubt some lines were done then but were not reported and were "re-done" later.

The main big walls of Utby were developed in 1980's and 1990's. Some smaller sectors and scattered routes on the different ledges were developed during 2010's.

At the same time the multi pitch routes were created. These, especially the bolted ones, has soon become the classics of the area.

Lexby

The area is access sensitive!

SINCE 15th OCTOBER ALMOST ALL SECTOR BÄCKARNA IS CLOSED DUE TO A ROCK FALL.

Some of the sectors are very close to houses, keep a very low profile. That is especially important at sectors left of the fence.

Sometimes parts of the crag might be banned from climbing due to nesting birds. Keep yourself updated.

Check even https://access.bergsport.se/lexby/.

At the moment, no bolting is allowed in Partille municipality.

🚗
From the exit Ullevimotet take the E20 eastwards. Leave the motorway at exit 80, Partillemotet (signs for Partille C/Landvetter/Sävedalen) and turn left onto Kung Göstas väg. Follow the road over a bridge and turn right at the roundabout onto Lexbyvägen. Follow Lexbyvägen for about 1,5 km, turn left onto Nygårdsvägen and then directly right. Car parking spaces can be found in the front of the school (max parking time is 4 h). Do not park anywhere else.
The drive is about 10 km.
🚌
Bus: Lexby skola (line 519).
Train: Partille station (1,5 km walk-in).
🚶‍♀️
You should see the crag from the parking lot (behind the school).

Sector Bäckarna is at the end of Nygårdsvägen. Sector Sometimes is to the right and sector Multipitch even further right.

To get to sector Stracciatella aim for the crag form the parking lot. Go between the school and the houses, pass the fence and you are there.

Sector Extaz is to the left while sector Stora väggen is to the right. Sector Höger is even further right.

To get top the sector Lexby gård follow the cycle way eastwards (with the school on your left). About 350 m from th parking lot turn left a little uphill between two paddocks. At the end of the left paddock turn left and work your way uphill mostly along the edge of the crag. You should soon arrive at the crag. The walk-in is about 600 m.

To find sector Partille Arena follow the directions for Lexby gård. Walk pass this sector to the left and continue for about 200 m. You should then see Partille Arena. The walk-in is about 800 m.