Description

Lillsjön is the most popular bouldering area around Norrköping. It is located in a beautiful nature reserve around the Lillsjön lake. Its extraordinary location provides to Lillsjön very nice sceneries and the possibility of having a swim after climbing in the hottest days of the summer.

The sectors consist mostly of cliff-walls, but there are also some individual boulders scattered. Most of the problems are vertical walls and slabs but there are some overhang problems too. The rock is fine grained granite of very good quality. Some of the sectors have pretty high boulders but the landings are generally very good.

Most of the sectors are located deep into the forest and are prefect for climbing during the summer but they tend to dry quite slow. Some sectors, like Messias or Vollivoxa, have less trees around and dry faster. Due to the high humidity of the forest, the moss grows pretty fast so it is advisable to bring a brush.

There are problems with all the grades but the most of them are from 5-7a. Some of the most recommended problems are the following:
3 - 5+ : Femman, Höger, Hope you like jamming or Haleluja.
6a - 6c+ : Skrapet sittstart, Erik ditt lilla ollon, Triumfator or På en höft.
7a - 8a : Olles sloop, Relationsrådet, Svenskt stål or Morsans piasava.

History

The bouldering in Lillsjön started in the 90s when Olle Wehlin, Per Karlsson, and few other climbers from Åby started to clean and climb problems at Ravinväggen sector. In 2002, Lillsjön started to became more popular, more problems were opened at Ravinväggen and new sectors (Byn and Badet) started to be developed. During these first years Lillsjön was not a popular area because some of the problems are quite high and required a lot of brushing.

During the last years Erik Häggmark, David Jaksch, Jimmy Karlsson and Sammy Dahlman among others, have developed new problems and sectors and put up a lot of old ones based on the original guide book written by Martin Perk. Nowadays, Lillsjön is one of the most popular bouldering areas around Norrköping, with more than 250 problems. There is still plenty of room for discovering new problems around this beautiful forest. Huge thanks to all of the active climbers who participated in cleaning and opening the area and making it what it is now.

Routes on Lillsjön
306 boulder 44 Likes
Premium topo by Norrköping Bouldering
Jakob Riad
from Linköping, Sweden
Per Karlsson
from Stockholm, Sweden