Description

This south-facing wall on Lovön offers a first-class view of Lake Mälaren at Mörbyfjärden. It features over 25 mostly well-protected climbing routes, typically between seven and nine meters high, with a few reaching up to 13 meters. Most routes are graded between 5c and 6c, with the wall being mostly slightly less than vertical. However, there are also a few shorter, more intense routes with slight overhangs. The rock quality is generally good, with the right section being especially compact and solid.

Almost all routes are accessible by foot and start from the ground close to the water.

The sun strikes the rock from around 09:00 in the morning and doesn't leave until it disappears below the horizon in the evening. The rock is mostly completely open to the sun, and on windless days winter climbing should therefore be possible. The wall dries very quickly after rain. The location is pleasant and invites you to hang out on the rocks by the crag and the water.

You can access the wall via a simple down climb about 70 meters to the south of the wall, from where a ramp down at the water's edge leads to the face. If you prefer to rappel down this is also easy as there are stable trees next to the edge, but you may also use some of the old anchors scattered along the cliff. The walk from the parking lot to the crag takes about 15 minutes and goes along a very nice path.

The proximity to the waterworks and the nature reserve means that you are not allowed to moor a boat or swim right by the cliff, or drill any new holes in the rock (the nature reserve was established in 2014). You can, however, take a dip a little further north along the water.

Note that Google Maps usually suggests a different wrong route if you just tap on the parking icon. The directions may lead you to the car park via an unauthorized road through the waterworks area. Please read the written description on the access page!

Three different sectors divide this crag, all located close to each other.

Sjöväggen:
Seven to maybe a maximum of about fifteen meters high. Mostly ok/good rock quality. The angle is just below vertical. All routes except one start from firm ground. The route on the far left starts above the water and you need to rappel down if you want to climb that one. This sector is located on the far left down by the water and you can access it by walking down the described path some 70 meters south of the walls (same as Kalahariväggen).

Kalahariväggen:
Seven to eight meters high. Very compact and solid rock. Short fun and slightly bouldery routes that sometimes are a tiny bit overhanging. Also located down by the water (next to Sjöväggen).

S:t Bar Moore-klippan:
This is a rather small wall but with a fairly good height (about 10 meters). The crag is just below vertical. Located immediately above Kalahariväggen.

History

A number of old bolts and anchors reveals that people have been climbing here for 20 years or more. The rock has probably never been reported. A tip circulated sometime in the mid/late nineties that there would be a tiny rock with climbing routes out on Lovön, whereupon a smaller team set out to search.
With too little information and a torn map page from the telephone book as help, the initially hopeful boys later had to turn home without having found any new rock. As the years passed the existence of the crag more or less fell into darkness.

Lovöklippan

The area is access sensitive!

The proximity to the waterworks and the nature reserve means that you are not allowed to moor a boat or swim right by the cliff, or drill any new holes in the rock (the nature reserve was established in 2014). You can, however, take a dip a little further north along the water.

Directions:
Drive road 261 from Brommaplan towards Drottningholm and follow the road for 4 km and turn right towards Hogsta riding sport (sign). Continue 2 km and turn right onto Lambaruddsvägen (towards Hogsta riding sport). Pass Hogsta riding sport and turn left after about 100 meters onto Norrbyvägen. Follow Norrbyvägen about 2 km to the parking lot by the Nature Reserve sign. Then walk to the right and follow the road along the houses. Then turn left and follow the wide path into the forest. Follow the marked path for approximately 700 meters and you will find the cliff right out towards the water.

Note that google maps usually suggests a different wrong route to the parking than the one described above. The directions may lead you to the car park via an unauthorized road through the waterworks area.