Description

This is a rather small but nice overhanging about twelve meters high very compact, smooth, solid crag with a two-minute approach from parking. This crag is located in a small undisturbed forest area near a horse paddock and field with allotments (koloniträdgårdar). This north-facing wall is one of the few possible alternatives on hot summer days in Stockholm.

The climbing is intense and quite technical right from the start, so there is plenty of climbing even on the shorter routes. This crag is best suited if you climb around 7b-8a, the easier routes on the flanks function more as warming-up routes, and they are quite mossy from time to time. Higher up on the right part the moss can grow pretty fast (ok at the moment 2021-06-19). Other parts do better, but still, bring a brush as it can be a bit messy on top. Mosquito repellent can be good to bring.

It is easy to bring the children here because the crag is close to the car park and the ground in the forest is flat and safe.

Environment:
North-facing wall. Sunny only in the morning and shade after around 12-1 pm. The crag is located next to a horse paddock and the trees in front of the wall have been cut down making the environment more open and brighter. The crag dries fairly quickly in summer, but after long rainy periods, waiting a couple of days before climbing is probably vice.

History

Mikael Widerberg was tipped about a crag by Moritz Kiewitt around 1998 and started drilling up a couple of difficult climbs in the middle of the crag. However, Mikael was ill and untrained and could not finish. Mikael then tipped other climbers and the only one responding with some action was as usual Johan Luhr.