Maroc 🚶♂️ 25' - ⛰️ 280 MSL - 🧭 NSEW - ☀️ after 11 in the morning
Valle dei molini 🚶♂️ 17' - ⛰️ 250 MSL - 🧭 S - ☀️ after 15 in the afternoon
Cassone is a small village on the shores of lake Garda. This side of the lake is characterized by olive groves, beaches, bicycle lanes and some small islands. Cassone is really close to Malcesine, one of the biggest cities on the lake, famous for its nice castle.
In this beautiful context, we have also found something to climb! There are not many hard lines for exigent climbers here, but if you are looking for a quiet area with a magic landscape you will not be disappointed.
“I Maroc” are four huge boulders that collect about 20 sport routes of medium length. Difficulties are concentrated around the 5 grade, but there are also few lines around 7a.The climbing style is mainly technical on a great grey limestone. Since this sector is rarely frequented, the rock has preserved its natural grip. Even if the approach is a bit long, the area is particularly suitable for families and beginners. Routes are perfect to improve the footwork and the protections are good and safe.
The boulders are shaded by the trees. It is possible to climb here during the whole year. During winter it is preferable to come only if the sun shines and in the afternoon.
There is also a boulder area close to the sport routes. Actually there are a tens of problems, but there is much more potential for new ones. The starts of the problems are indicated by a black arrow, landings are good.
Cassone has some interesting climbing sectors that are unfairly little frequented, probably due to the fact that local climbers are not fully aware of their presence. The lines are interesting and the landscape over the lake is amazing!
On the south of this interesting area, there is a huge canyon that absolutely deserves a visit! This area is called Valle dei Molini and a careful climber can discover some particular lines on amazing limestone walls full of tufas.
There is a huge potential for both easy and extreme lines here, but it is necessary to pay attention to the conditions. Indeed this canyon is generally humid and never gets the sun. This situation could be nice during Summer, but if it rains a lot it could be impossible to climb here.
In any case the area is stunning and it is rarely frequented.
The approach is medium-long, 20 minutes from the car park.
