Description

Not far from the small fish village of Medveja, on the coastal side of the Učka mountain, one can meet a wide valley Lovranska Draga. The climbing site Oporovina is located on the north-east slopes of the valley. Systematic equipping of the site began in 2008, by efforts of local climbers and a few enthusiasts from Italy. The site is characterized by the superb quality of rock and an outstanding Mediterranean environment. On several crags one can find a wide variety of routes: long and overhanging routes as well as technically demanding vertical plates. In general, most routes in this site require a high concentration and a physical endurance so the site is recommended mostly for experienced climbers. Routes are well bolted. Approach to the site follows the marked trail. Trails to certain sectors are somewhat steep, therefore not recommended for children.

After the rain depends on the wind how fast routes need to be dry again, but sectors Veli Jože and Mali Jože dries faster. Knezgrad can be wet for a longer period of time.

Important remark: Climbing site Medveja is located in the buffer zone of the Nature Park Učka. This means that, even though the site is not within the Park, the Park’s rangers are authorized to intervene in case of human activities that may negatively influence balance of the Park’s ecosystems. Therefore we urge all visitors of the climbing site Medveja to follow the next rules:
• Parking is allowed only in designated places, by the main road before the road branching that leads to the site.
• Camping is prohibited both below crags and abroad.
• Approach to crags is allowed only by marked trails. No trespassing private land.
• Some parts of the area (like caves in the upper section of the site) are registered archaeological sites, therefore any unregistered activities in such places are prohibited.
• Uncoordinated equipping of new routes is forbidden. Before any such activity, one should contact the local climbing club (rirockclimbing@gmail.com).

Accomodation: Camp Medveja (http://www.remisens.com/en/camping-medveja)
Lovran District Tourist Office (http://www.tz-lovran.hr/english/Default.asp).

History

The first to bolt here were locals and climbers from Rijeka, Pazin and Pula around 2008, who first made the lower sector Mali Jože with the first route RiRock, which kick started the revolution. The biggest leap was made by bolting the magnificent Knezgrad, where Italians with Andrea and Enrico Polo left their mark. In 2011 Klemen Bečan climbed the Polo brothers project, the Core and graded 9a, which was later downgraded to 8c+ by Andrea Polo itself. But we didn‘t wait too long for the next 9a. During climbing of Vicious Circle in Mišja, Adam Ondra visited Medveja, where he onsighted Lovranska droga (8a) as a warmup, which was just an introduction to the on sight ascents of Outdoorfingerspiele (8c) and The Core (8c+). Still, the highlight of the day was an ascent in More (meaning „the sea“ in Croatian ), a proper 9a, which is still unrepeated.

Medveja

The area is access sensitive!

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From Lovran (close to the petrol station) turn to Liganj and Lovranska Draga. Stay on this road for next 6.5 km. A little before Lovranska Draga, after a few sharp bends, leave the car on the left side widening (main road here turns right). There is the signpost for “Vila Oraj”. Parking GPS: N 45°27’71.34”, E 14°25’59.49.
IMPORTANT: Please park your car cca. 60m before the widening because main part is reserved for Mountain rescue and electric operators!
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From the widening follow the descending narrow paved road until the next widening on the right. Here starts a descending trail that passes by the power lines. The trail is marked with stone piles. Follow it for 10 minutes to reach the sector A.
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From here the trail continues to descend to fixed ropes that lead down to sektor B (after the fixes on the right) and C (after the fixes on the left).
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To reach the sektor D, start from the sector A to the left (when you look down the valley) and follow the trail (fixed rope again). The sektor D is also available in another, direct variant. This approach starts on the paved road, passes the beginning of the first trail for about 100 meters and follows the second, wider and apparently more used trail that leads directly to the sektor D.
Sector Camp:
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The sector behind the camp has a separate approach. Drive to the camp in Medveja and park beside the road before it (from the direction of Rijeka). Parking GPS:N 45°27’16.65”, E 14°26’98.71”
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From here, there is a short path beside the camp fence to the wall.