Description

Misty Cliffs Sport routes ranks amongst the best in Cape Town; beautiful views and a seaside village, long routes (essential 70m rope for the longer routes and minimum 14 draws) on excellent rock with moderately steep faces but steep bulging overlaps on the upper sections.

Misty is not in condition when a North West or West wind blows: salt from the sea "schlorks" the holds and climbing is not pleasant if at all possible. For this reason Misty had a reputation as a sea side shlork crag.

Luckily the opposite is true. When the South Easter blows, where The Mine, and The Hole become "shlorky" from the sea on the other side of the mountain, Misty is in impeccable condition; the wind blows over the top of the crag toward the west and offshore over the sea. If the waves have spray in a direction away from the crag; you're in for a great day, and wind-free at the crag.

The crag has shade from the morning until 2pm-ish, and this is the preferred time to climb.

Scarborough Village (3 minutes further drive) has excellent coffee shops before climbing, and great restaurants for pizza and beer as well as an excellent deli.

The setting is ideal looking over the sea and beaches below; it's a stunning place and picturesque drive

Read the access / indemnity / permit instructions carefully, and abide by them fully: this is private land.

Bolts are excellent and new; stainless 316 glue-ins paid for by Jono Cohen and Sean Maasch; we are eternally grateful.

History

Misty Cliffs was first climbed in the '80s by Tinie Versveld, Ross Suter, Andy de Klerk and and others, on mixed trad / pegs and the odd bolt.

Being on Private Land, access appeared lost forever until Jono and Cally Cohen moved to Cape Town, and together with Sean Maasch negotiated access by way of lease.

You legends!

Routes on Misty Cliffs
14 sport 3 Likes
Photos
Steve Koehorst
from Cape Town
Misty Cliffs

The area is access sensitive!

Misty Cliffs is on Private property. Access is by annual lease paid by climbers. This lease may or may not be renewed. Misty was lost to climbers for over 20 years; 2021 marks the first access again after a long negotiation thanks to Jono Cohen and Sean Maasch.
Strict access and conduct rules exist, and the Permits to climb are regularly checked by the land owner at the vehicles, or on the path.
DO NOT STUFF ACCESS UP.
Indemnity forms are to be signed online Each and Every time you visit, with all crag members names included.

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSeqy4U2KJj35-oF-JBUJmiq-zLsMhNvQTGrEf1VU8w4iPDw8g/viewform?usp=sf_link

This link will also update you in the event access has changed.

KEEP YOUR PERMIT ON YOUR PHONE.

If you do not abide by these rules, you are trespassing on private property and placing access in jeopardy for all climbers. There are no exceptions.
No litter ever; no finger tape / no loo paper / no cigarette butts. The land owner inspects.
Toilet business should be done well away and BURIED DEEP.

A R50 permit is payable as follows each and every time before you visit, for each member of the party. Remember that climbers have paid the full lease for the year in advance to the land owner.
Payment to: Selmanetix Pty Ltd account 4096978112 ABSA Bank branch code 632005 use reference "Misty Cliffs - ".

Parking and path:
Do not park up the steep road amongst houses. Park on the main road near sign "Misty Cliffs", start walking up "Old Camp Rd" until the direct path straight up right of the houses is accessed. At the top house take the right contour single track path and follow cairns diagonally right following cairns, until you traverse around the corner and come across the excellent long and steep sport crag.

Refer to the Map in the "topo" section and photos