Rather Impressive about 20 meters high crag with a couple of wonderfully fine slightly overhanging technical and sustained fully bolted routes around 7a/7b that are some of the best in Stockholm. The main target when visiting Morarna is typically those routes however, some nice easier routes have recently been added increasing the opportunities for more climbers. The bulgier and steeper right wall is also cool and quite interesting, but the climbing on this sector is more demanding as most routes are mixed or traditionally protected.
A couple of easier bolted routes have recently been renovated or retrobolted (2022), which means that Morarna nowadays is a better choice if you want to climb some easy and fully bolted routes.
The crag is also flanked by some short and very steep bolted routes that are quite bouldery.
This crag is quiet and nicely located just 50 meters from the parking (parking fee introduced in 2023) in a small forest glade out on Gålö, 25 kilometres south of Stockholm. There is also a campfire with benches next to the crag with room for a larger gang.
Environment:
Crag is facing west. Some trees might give some shade here and there but it will probably be quite sunny on the main wall during summer, although the easier routes to the left might stay in the shade. Sun strikes the wall around 12 o'clock. The ground is flat and child-friendly down at the base, but there might be some ticks (fästingar) in the grass.
Parking fee introduced in 2023.
Three are three sectors:
Left wall: The main attraction is the routes on the amazing big flat face. Most of these routes are renovated and the bolts are in good shape. There are also some extra anchors placed a bit above the routes (not visible/marked on the topo), usable if you want access anchors just below or close to the edge. One newly fully bolted 6a route was recently made (2022). There are also some newly (2022) renovated bolted easier routes located more to the left of the wall which is quite alright. Far to the left, there are a couple of quite fun very steep and bouldery routes.
Right wall: This is a very cool and unique section with big rounded water polished overhanging formations separated by a number of cracks in different sizes. It looks very tempting. Except for a newly (2022) bolted 6a route this sector is only suitable to the more experienced climbers as most of the routes are mixed/naturally protected. There are some bolts here and there but they might be quite old these days, and that goes for the many pitons (bladbult) as well. Back up with your own gear if possible.
Eldareväggen: A small, quite nice sector if you like short and bouldery routes. A new well-bolted easy route that might fit beginners and children has recently been made. This sector is located next to the campfire.
