Very good bouldering area in Pembrokeshire. Contains a couple of top class boulders both in low to medium grades (i.e. Flying Arete, The Lip Traverse, Gargoyle, Sloper Traverse).
Respect the environment, take your trash with you, don't destroy the plants which have a difficult life here anyway due to armies of sheep and horses.
The rock is a bit similar to sandstone but a bit harder like granite with a very good friction. Dries very fast due to exposure to the wind. You can find mainly slopers, crimps and cracks, not so many pockets unfortunately.
Climbing is possible all year round, though winters are wet in the area, so probably there is fewer days good for climbing.
Grades are non uniform, with some being way too hard while some being way too easy in comparison to other bouldering areas. This may be caused by the history of the region exploration, where old school trad climbers explored it and made the first boulders.
Landings are varied. Some are good for one person with one pad and no spotter, while others are really dangerous so watch out.
Best time of the day to visit is probably evening, as the sunsets are absolutely stunning here, with a great panorama with Preseli mountains in the South/East and sea in all other directions. In the evening the lights in Fishguard town turn on, making the sunset even more interesting with an explosion of colors in the sky.
There is a lot of sleeping places around as Pembrokeshire is a touristic area, with closest 'highly touristic town' being Newport and a lot of trailer parks around. You can also find food easily as there is a lot of restaurants and pubs.
On the wet day you can walk the coastal path ( really nice views, also on gloomy weather, with big chance of seeing seals or dolphins ). You can do water sports from surfing to kayaking with some good spots for renting being Newgale, Newport and Cardigan. If you want to climb indoors there is a small but great and very family-like bouldering gym called Wild Lakes Wales ( being also a wake board spot ) and a climbing wall in an old church in Carmarthen.
