Description

Noret is the collective name for the southern part of the one km long wall located along the bay "Kalvfjärden". Noret consists of four different sectors; Terriervägen, Röda lacket väggen, Båthamnen and Parkeringsväggen. Some short mediocre routes are mixed with nicer routes of varying length and steepness. The same goes with the rock quality that offers solid and fine rock mixed with more loose and broken parts. Generally, the routes are around 8 to 15 meters in length. The most popular is Röda lacket väggen located high above the bay overlooking the archipelago and completely open to the sun. This is a very popular sector in spring and fall as it gets very warm, especially if it's not windy. The evening sun is amazing.

Terrierväggen:
This sector is located next to the path that runs along the water. Mostly very steep short and bouldery bolted routes. A couple of quite nice slightly longer climbs at the far left of the wall that deserves more repetitions. The wall is partially shaded by a few trees, but will probably be open to the sun in the spring before the leaves strike out. Warm in spring. Some hangers are missing on the very shortest routes.

Röda lacket väggen:
High and nice location with a wonderful view over the bay. A couple of nice easier to moderate hard bolted routes. Some compact good quality parts and some steeper more loose ones. Excellent in spring and autumn and really hot in summer. The evening sun is amazing - climb until midnight!

Båtbryggan:
This is a big wall next to the boat bridge with a big roof at the top. The main attraction in this sector is probably 999 luftballonger (7c+) that are one of the best routes in Stockholm, but there are also a couple of newly made bolted routes to the left of 999 luftballonger that should not be missed. Far to the left, there is a steeper section with some short sports climbs that are quite ok. In the middle of the wall, there are also a couple of long and adventurous traditional routes that look quite nice but are seldom climbed.

Parkeringen:
Behind the parking lot. Here are some older trad routes mixed with bolted steeper sport routes. Some hangers and anchors are missing, mainly at the shortest routes. Not the best environment because of some vegetation around the crag. The sportroutes at the left on the topo/sketch do not have many repetitions but they are quite nice actually. It's time to discover these. Many of the steeper bolted sport routes are probably quite free from moss but the less steeper sections might be a little dirty, so bring a brush.

Environment:
The walls are mainly facing southwest/west. Röda lacket väggen is completely open and is a great sector in early spring and fall. In the other sectors, some trees will give shade here and there.

History

The history and the development of this cliff follows the same pattern as many other cliffs in Stockholm. Some old trad routes where made along the most obvious formations by the most prominent climbers around in the mid seventies/early eighties. Henrik Bolander and Fredrik Rundkvist also helped develop the rock and made some mixed or traditionally protected climbs in the early 90's. But it was thanks to the development by Johan Luhr in early 2000 that the crag increased in popularity and climbers started to come.

Noret

The area is access sensitive!

Access:
Noret is located in Klövbergets nature reserve and its not allowed to place any new bolts. Download all the regulations here: https://www.tyreso.se/download/18.340718311612147ade043571/1522233545101/20160902%20Klovberget%20beslut%20foreskrifter%20bilaga%201.pdf

Directions:
Take Nynäsvägen (road 73) and take the exit for Tyresö (road 229). After about 10 km you can see Mc Donalds on the right side, but just continue straight ahead. After 6 km turn right in a roundabout onto Nytorpsvägen (just after steep long uphill). Follow the road to its end and turn left. Then take the second right up Mokärrsvägen. Follow this and turn right after about 2 km, down the Svartbäcksvägen. After about 500 meters turn right onto Noretvägen. After 800 meters there is little dirt road to the right leading to a parking lot (Klövbergets nature reserve). Parkeringsväggen is immediately behind the parking lot. To get to the Röda lacket väggen: Follow the obvious path to the water and out on the boat bridge. After the bridge ends continue on the path about 150 m and turn right after a small wooden bridge immediately around a large boulder. Follow the path up into steep / block terrain and the wall becomes visible after about 50 meters. You reach the Terrier wall by continuing the path along the water another 200 meters.

Public transportation:
Bus to Mossvägen and then a 1.5 km walk.