Description

Østmarka Delux lies south-east of Lia and offers both stand-alone boulders and walls. The sector has something to offer for any climber, regardless of skillset and ambitions. The sector consist of some clusters of boulders, but is generally more spread out than for instance Filmplaneten. You should expect some longer approaches to some of the problems. As with the other crags in Østmarka, moving west-to-east (and vice versa) can be difficult, and one should seek out established trails using the map. You should also note that the cellular coverage is not vey good in parts of the area so it is advised to download the crag before venturing out to the forest.

The western and southern parts of the crag is quite close to Lia and Katteputten, so this is a great starting point to a wide selection of routes. Make up your mind as you are standing at the base of the hill close to bloc "Åsynsteinen (22)".

Some suggestions for day outings are:
⭐ Sveisparken(9a) and the sorroundings with mostly easy to moderate bouldering with the option to continue to the bouldering in the Den Røde Kjempen(13a-c) sector with Pulsar 7C as the main attraction.
⭐ Combing Edelsteinen(32) and Lutsteinen(33) and the sorrounding sectors for a variety of boulders from easy up to 7C+.
⭐ Villmarksteinen(18) and the sorroundings sectors with classics such as Villmark (8A), Krystallsambandet (7A+) and Store Monster (7B+).
⭐ Fysikkveggen(7), Karmasteinen (4) and nearby sectors for all grades up to 8A.
⭐ Nye gamleveggen and sorrounding sectors for easy to moderate boldering up to 7B.

On the naming of problems and sectors, the following convention is worth mentioning: If a problem has both a sit start and a stand start variation, the sit start will have (Ss) added to it's name. Some exceptions to this rule applies f.ex. if both sit and stand start have their own given names. Boulder problems that include an eliminate are denoted (E). Boulders that have a defined starting position are denoted (Ds). The elimination and starting definition can be found in the description of the problem.

As for ethics and general rules of conduct you get a long way with the application of common sense. Remember that the forest is shared with many so avoid loud music where you can disturb others. Leave the place as clean when you leave as it was when you arrived (or cleaner!) and remove excessive tick marks when you are done. Keep your dog on a leash, there are still plenty of wild animals that your dog might want to chase. Although not prohibitet, the use of blow torch to dry holds is genarally discouraged.

⛰️ Like the rest of Østmarka, Delux also consists of ancient bedrock, mostly gneiss, a metamorphic type of rock. You can encounter many types of textures and patterns in the area, like quartz crystal pockets, big boulders of granite, and rocks speckled with garnets.

Some of the less popular boulders have not been maintained in the last few years, and may be overgrown. The topo images are from 2020, so keep that in mind and bring a steel brush if it looks like it needs some maintenance.

History

Although people have been climbing in Østmarka since the end of the 19th century, the bouldering as we know it today only started to get established in the 2000s. After sports climbing and some bouldering in the 70's, 80's and 90's, the first main bouldering areas were established by Hjarrand Julsrud and Geir Arne Bore in the early 2000s, which included the classics Grevling (7b+) and Stalker (7c) in the Lia area. Later, the areas in Filmplaneten were developed by Chris Fossli and Øyvind Ville Sæter. Since then, loads more areas have been established along the west edge of Østmarka, by countless contributors.

Truls M. Larsen also needs to be mentioned; he established a lot of boulders in Østmarka and made the printed guides for the area as well. Most of the problems listed here is based on his works. Thoralf Bergersen, aka. the Østmarka janitor, has maintained a lot of the boulders and kept them moss free.

We have tried to list the FA wherever we know who and when, and please let us know if we've forgotten to give someone credit for their fantastic work.

A big thanks to everyone who's cleaned rocks and established boulders over the years!