Main area: 🚶♂️ 12-15' - ⛰️1900-1950 MSL - 🧭 S/W - ☀️ all day
Sasso dei bambini: 🚶♂️ 5' - ⛰️ 1860 MSL - 🧭 W - ☀️ sun after midday
Vergogna: 🚶♂️ 5' - ⛰️ 1880 MSL - 🧭 W - ☀️ sun after midday
Magnific landscape over the Dolomites and marmots that attack you looking for some food. This is what you will encounter if you want to spend a climbing day by the sectors of Pian Schiavaneis.
This historical crag is one of the most famous in the area and collects over 100 sport routes.
There are sectors for every taste and skill. There are technical slabs and long overhangs that require a good amount of stamina, ranging from 4 to 8c+. The rock is dolomite. Routes are spreaded on 8 sectors that are quite close to each other.
Sasso dei bambini and Vergogna suit best those who are approaching the climbing on rock for the first time. They have West exposure, so they are shaded in the morning.
The other sectors have South exposition that combined with the altitude of 1900 meters over sea level, make them climbable during the whole year. During the sunny days of the Summer the temperatures could be quite high, so it is preferable to climb in the early morning or in the late afternoon. Sector Centrale and Placca are the most famous. Centrale has long overhangs that require a lot of endurance and can be climbed when it is raining. Many of the routes holds here were chipped or have sika. Sector Placca is more technical and fingery, while other sectors are more varied.
Crag bases are generally comfortable and the approach of about 10 minutes for the furthest sectors is good also for children.
If you want to spend a nice day in the dolomite environment, you found a really good crag. The area is quiet and the landscape is amazing. Pay attention to the marmots that will bother you, but please, do not feed them with anything (even vegetables)!
