Description

A predominantly overhanging wall, this is a great place for climbers looking for challenges from around 7a and upwards. Also, the classic Kjempepupper (6b) is worth the trip out here alone. Located next to a swampy creek, the wall gets rather hot and humid on warm and sunny days, but it's still climbable due to high friction on the rock. You climb mostly on good holds, although there are some occasional crimps now and then. The climbing tends to lean towards the endurance side, but you can find some short and powerful routes, in favor of boulderers. Some of the grading might come off as hard, but eventually they make sense after you get used to the wall's style of climbing.

The overhanging routes can be climbed in light rain.

There is potential for expansion, as there are slabs and vertical walls further up in the valley that are suited for development.

History

This was once the hottest crag in the area (and arguably in the region) after it was established in the late 90s. It is unique for the area, with an overhanging section with several steep routes in the 7th grade. The crag has gotten notorious for its somewhat obscene route naming and stiff grading, but don't let that fool you. Pornocragget offers supreme climbing, and sending a route here often leaves you wanting for more.

Routes on Pornocragget
18 sport 2 trad 1 boulder 15 Likes
Browse topos
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Premium topo by Bøklatring
Martin Hagen Ring
M. Hagen Ring
from Norway
Jonas Breivik
J. Breivik
from Norway
Kristoffer Løvvold
K. Løvvold
from Bø i Telemark
Other Premium topos by Bøklatring
Pornocragget

The area is access sensitive!

The old approach and old parking was changed, because locals did not like climbers on their property. Be friendly to the locals that live on the farm houses next to the parking.

See map for driving instructions and parking location.

IMPORTANT: Drive past the barn, and park on the right side of the road. Do not park on the large space on the left side of the road.

On foot from the parking: Walk back towards the farm, and walk past the barn on the left side on a lorry road. Follow the lorry road that continues uphill to the right. Walk over a treeless field, and continue into the forest, still on a faint lorry road. After a couple of minutes you have to leave the lorry by taking a sharp left onto a trail. This turning point is easy to miss, but should be marked with a band. From there, follow a faint trail through the forest. The trail should lead all the way to the wall. The wall can be tricky to find the first time you try, so you might want to study a map beforehand, as phone signal might be bad.