Description

This crag is located just underneath the Castle Rabeneck and the opposite river side. The sectors offers mainly vertical and technical climbing on crimps or sloping pockets.

"Rabenecker Wand" has got some fragile passages and is a bit more overhanging than the other sectors. Climbing is either hard firing or classical easier hiking up the walls. The wall is very shady so it's recommended for late summer or autumn. Climbing is prohibited until end of June anyway.

"Schrollwand" is just a little bit off the beaten track so you'll probably be alone. Climbing is great though, predominantly short technical climbing on sloping pockets in vertical walls.
One hard awesome line can be found at "Mariantlwand" but that's actually it.

The opposite Riverside gets a lot more sun. Especially "Bayreuther Riss" is perfect for colder sunny days. Beside some old school crack climbs from the early days there are a lot of great long climbs in moderate or bit harder grades developed by Martin Treiber in late 90s. Jushua Schulz developed the harder stuff recently, mainly sustained climbing on tiny crimps.
"Treusteiner Wand" at the upper floor gets less sun than "Bayreuther Riss" so this sector perfects the crag for the whole year. The routes which are mainly developed by Martin Treiber as well, are just a bit easier than at "Bayreuther Riss" and the holds are slightly bigger. Technics is required though.

Goodies

soft:
Frankenländer Kamin, Bayreuther Riss Direkt

medium:
Durchriss, back to the beginning, Direkter Hansenweg

hard:
Just in Time, Schmetterlingseffekt, Chaosprinzip, the shild, Klotos Keule, Solitary man

Routes on RabenEck
65 sport 5 trad 2 Likes
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H. Vartia
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RabenEck

The area is access sensitive!

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"Rabenecker Wand" and "Mariandl Wand" are closed from 1st of February till 30th of June due to bird breeding.
Furthermore the old access to "Treusteiner Wand" is closed because of some rockfalls lately. There's no street ditch, so be careful with falling rocks at the sector "Treusteiner Wand"

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"Rabeneck" is located at the Wiesent valley between Behringersmühle and Waischenfeld about 3 km north of the hamlet "Doos" and 3 km south of Waischenfeld.
The old parking got soak by the new cycle path. There is still some space between the street and the cycle path. If you have any doubts drive for 630 meter up north. There is a forest path to your left where you can park.

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Bayreuther Riss:
You'll find a small trail with a fixed rope just across the street from the southern wards parking. Follow that trail and keep left at the end of the rope. Pass the small cave and turn right to get to the wall. The wall is just above the cave.

Treusteiner Wand:
Follow the path like getting to "Bayreuther Riss" but keep going up the hill at the end of the rope. There's another rope which leads through a groove. On top you reach the sector.

Mariandlwand:
Follow the street up north until the next bend. Pass the bridge to your right and turn right onto the hiking trail. After 120 meter there's a regulation sign at the path that leads you tu the wall.

Rabenecker Wand:
Follow the access description for Mariandl Wand but follow the Hiking trail for 80 meter further to the next regulation sign. Go up that path to the wall you already can see

Schrollwand:
Follow the access description for Mariandl Wand but follow the Hiking trail for about 300 meter further until you find a patch detour to the left. Follow that path for 120 meter until you spot the wall to your left next to the path.