Rantaniitunvuori the "altenative crag" in Kustavi for those who want to take a break from jamming. At this crag the Southwestern Finnish granite offers some overhang profiles and the holds are even vertical, which is against the preferences of Juha Suikkala who originally found the crag. Spicy and sporty little routes vary between 6 and 12 meters. There are also some boulders for warm up or why not the actual sending. The rock quality is good and the rock formations are somewhat feminine in places.
Service is good here: the parking place is just next to the crag and water refill is possible in front of the crag, by the road which used to be the Great Post Route. There are ants enough to keep the snakes away. If you end up getting too big dose of lactic (or formic) acid, the other crags at Rahi are just a stone's throw away.
https://jammi.net/kalliot/kustavi/rantaniitunvuori/index.html
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Educate yourself by getting familiar with Kustavi's unique 5-step trad protection grading system, invented by the original jammi.net topo collection team:
* Teddy bear (pro1): You can get bomb-proof gear wherever you want, the whole route is easily protected.
* Alpine ibex (pro2): Not as obvious as Teddy bear. You have to spot the good places for protection. You may even need some micro-size gear.
* Monkey (pro3): Something suspicious. There may be some bad placements, big runouts or limited visibility to the crack to complicate putting the placements.
* Lizard (pro4): Needs true boldness. Crux moves on the most suspicious placements, route-length lead falls, critical runouts.
* Spider (pro5): Regardless having the most accurate and innovative protection gear in your rack, there is obivous risk of injury. The best protection for a pro5/spider graded route is a full commitment to a successful ascent.
https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/varmistettavuus.html
