Runsa

In a beautiful and quiet natural area on a headland (udde) next to Lake Mälaren 5 km northeast of Upplands Väsby, lies this crag. From the top of the ancient castle next to the crag, you have a mile-wide view over the water and away towards Märsta. The crag is about 75 meters long and the routes are between 10-18 meters high. Mostly solid and fine gneiss/granite.

This crag's main attraction is a clean overhanging flat face which, with a few crack lines and some bolted face sections, mostly offers quite demanding traditional/mixed climbing, where sometimes a lot of the power is spent when placing the gear itself. The route Vampyren is considered a real gem and a classic in Stockholm and it's a must-do if you are into traditional climbing. It's easy to rig a top-rope if you want to try these clasics, which is good as the majority of climbers most likely want to top rope these routes before they lead them (Vampyren however is considered ok protected, but is still quite demanding). Follow the path back around the crag to get to the top.
The left part of the main wall, which is a bit difficult to overlook, is divided by ledges and corners in different sizes, but if you give it some time and check it out you will find quite okay shorter sections and routes. Some of the scattered bolts have been replaced and several anchors have been fitted (2013), but it's still some old bolts and pitons that would need to be replaced.

Flugväggen:
40 meters from the main wall is Flugväggen, which is an eight to ten meters low-angle crag with a couple of nice routes that give more climbing than you might think. Unfortunately, the moss tends to grow pretty quickly in this sector, although the centre part usually is in better shape. Bring a brush. Here are also a couple of unreported bolted routes.

Skeppsättningen:
Straight into the forest at the “stone ship” is a 30-meter wide and 6-9 meter high overhanging little nice crag. It has two main walls, the left of which is the steepest (100 °) but also the lowest. The right part is quite shady. The four routes are well worth doing and have a lot of climbing for the meters. Many of the routes have their crux at the top, which makes them less suitable as boulders. There are still some possibilities for new routes.
Bring a brush as it can be a bit mossy.

Environment:
Southwest facing. Mostly open, but some shade at the base here and there. Great in spring and hot in summer.

History by Claes Jelinek:
There are not at all as many climbing places north of Stockholm, despite the fact that the nature is largely the same as that obtained south of Slussen. Many have embarked on rock-climbing expeditions during cold autumn and winter days, but very little of value has been discovered. A few crags however, have been shown to contain schuckert stuff.
Hasse Hellström visited Runsa already in the 60s and did, among other things, Dubbeldiedret and Vampyren.

In the early 70's, Torbjörn Berg was very close to free climbing Vampyren, but the first free ascent of this first-class route did not come until 1978 through the skilled Christer Åstrand. Lasse Grankvist lived next door to Runsa and made several routes. The excellent Som en Jehu is probably the finest of these. Some of his creations may contain both surprises in terms of the difficulty of the route, and might sometimes also be a direct threat to your helth. In retrospect (not always), however, both the grades and protection options have been adjusted by Lasse.

In 1979, Rick McGregor led the until then only top roped crack line to the right of Vampyren, which was later renamed “Rick´s crack”. Daniel Bidner, Åke Danielsson, Johan Luhr and Henrik Bolander have also contributed to the opening of various routes.
In the early 80's, a climber had an interesting show on the route Vampyren; The climb and placement went smoothly the first four meters on the upper part and everything looked completely normal. When X had come up about ten meters in the crack without adding anything more, those present in the audience began to get nervous and someone suggested that it might be time to put in some gear. "I can't bear it, I aim for the top!" hissed the increasingly shaking and pressed man. A couple from the auditorium failed to witness the rest show and disappeared around the corner while X trembled up. All forces were mobilized on the last move where a violent crucial catch towards the top edge resulted in both feet releasing. "Oops damn, I did it!" he stated, surprised after the final mantle up on the top. A tip for the reader: Never do this again!