Saghatten

A good route on rock with sea cliff character. P1: Follow corner system to its natural end, then traverse left -- sling the horn, then climb up and onto the shelf. Be careful here, there is some lose rock on the shelf. Stance at bottom of small pillar. P2: Excellent left-slanting dihedral. Traverse right after roof onto shelf. P3: Nice dihedral, passing under a large roof rightwards. P4: Hard moves through a messy section leads into a right-slanting dihedral. Stance on good shelf under roof. P5: Traverse right, aim for an obvious overhang. An excellent slanting dihedral follows, exit left onto slabs in stead of venturing right when opportunity presents.

Tl1, 20m, 4. Samme som Mitra. Rett opp til eit tre. Det er fleire av dei, velg det som ser best ut for deg. Tl2, 40m, 5. Ein liten svingom til venstre for sprekksystemet som er fullt av choss. Så start opp sprekksystemet. Når du kjem til ei stor rampe som går opp mot venstre setter du stand nokre meter opp i den rampa. Tl3, 30m, 5+. Traverser mot høgre (litt tynt sikra) inn i sprekk-systemet igjen. Eit par opptak seinare finn du neste stand i botnen av ei lita renne som leder opp under eit stort takoverheng. Tl4, 40m, 5+. Moneypitch! Fortsett opp systemet, og ta til venstre for taket. Mange valg her, eg sikra i takoverhenget og fjesklatra litt.

A note from first-ascensionists: we did not spend a great deal of time cleaning this route. It retains a rather chossy character until it has seen more traffic. Pitch 1: Start at the obvious flake, keep to the left of the blank section of rock for 50m. Belay at bottom of left-slanting gully with blocks. Pitch 2: Follow the gully up and left, pass a scary looking giant block (careful) to a nice tree (birch) under an obvious roof, 25m. Pitch 3: Go up the left side of the tree, and take a few steps right after the bulge to enter a nice (but a little loose) hand-crack. Aim for the right-hand side of the roof. Place a bomber 0.3, maneuver the roof, step left on the slab and climb for 4 more meters to a nice belay shelf, 30m. Pitch 4: Climb the dihedral for 3-4 meters, step right and follow the blocky but fun climb straight up. Aim for the left-hand side of the tiny roof and traverse right under the big roof above it. Belay from tree at top, 30m. Walk-off is easy scramble down the north-west side.