Description

Seglora was one of the first sport climbing areas in Sweden. Here you’ll find many nice and easy bolted routes. Seglora consists of two crags: Gamla berget and Nya berget.

ASPECT AND CLIMATE
Gamla berget faces south, southeast and east while Nya berget faces southeast. Face climbs at Gamla berget dry quickly while cracks stay wet for a while.
Nya berget is open and most of the routes dry quickly. The mosquitoes/gnats can be a serious problem at both crags (mostly during June). Sometimes, the little creek at Nya berget floods and it can be a little awkward to get to the crag.

THE ROUTES
Gamla berget offers about 60 routes in all grades. Routes in grades 6a-7a dominate but there are also harder and easier routes. The climbing varies between steep slabs and slightly overhanging walls. Some routes also offer parts with roof climbing. If a route feels much easier than the grade given in the guide there is a possibility that you’re not allowed to use some holds (some of the routes are simply eliminations). Ask some locals for explanation. There are bolted, mixed and trad routes at the crag. Almost all routes are equipped with lower-offs.
Climbing at Nya berget is of steep slab/vertical type with some slightly more overhanging routes.
All routes but one are fully bolted and all routes have lower-offs. As the crags are very popular and many routes are climbed frequently, it is uttermost important that we do not top rope directly through the anchors as these will wear out unnecessary fast.

History

The climbing at Gamla berget started some time at th end of 1980's. In the begining of 1990's the ideas about sport climbing made their way to the crag with many new routes bolted and a lot of old trad ones retrobolted.

Nya berget was mainly developed 1992-1193.

Kvibergs climbing club made a lot of rebolting at Gamla berget around 2010.

Seglora

Climbing has been limited!

This year (2023) there is no general climbing ban due to the nesting birds but following should be implemented:
- no climbing after sun set
- no activity on the top of the crag

The landowner at Gamla berget charges (2023) 30 SEK per climber and day (instruction about how to pay can be found at the parking lot).

🚗
From Göteborg take road 40 towards Borås. Leave road 40 at 78, Ryamotet (signs for Hyssna/Skene) and follow road 156 to the village Hyssna. In Hyssna, turn left and follow signs towards Seglora. Gamla berget shows up just before you enter the village Seglora, about 10 km from Hyssna. Park on the left side of the road, on the field in front of the crag (approximately in the middle of the crag, in front of sector Ankdammen).
The drive is about 55 km.
If you’re heading for Nya berget continue past Gamla berget and turn left at the first junction in Seglora. Follow the small road until you come to a bigger road (T-junction, you can see a little bridge on your right). Turn left onto it and you’ll see the crag on the left after a while (about 3 km longer drive than for Gamla berget).
The car park is in the front of the crag.
The drive from Gamla to Nya berget is about 3,5 km.