ATTENTION. SENSITIVE ACCESS SITUATION.
The landowner is displeased with the climbers' parking behavior, which now poses a risk to access.
It is of utmost importance to park responsibly and avoid blocking the road in any way. Drive onto the grass as much as possible, ensuring your car is as far away from the road as can be. If the designated parking area is somewhat crowded, please refrain from improvising your own parking solutions. Instead, park within the marked spots on the edge of the field. Parking alongside the road is strictly prohibited.
If the parking area is full or nearly full, it may not be your lucky day, and you should consider choosing another climbing spot. The parking area is also designated for the use of bathing guests.
Description:
A highly popular crag for sport climbing, beautifully situated right next to Lake Lilla Vrången. The cliff is considered top-tier in Sweden for sport climbing with its high-quality reddish granite.
The main wall is up to 25m high and offers numerous classic and impressive routes. There are also smaller sections of the wall that are around 10m in height. The shortest route is 6m, perhaps more like a boulder problem.
The main wall faces east and doesn't receive direct sunlight after 3 PM. Mozart Wall and Lake Wall face south and receive more sunlight; these two sections dry quickly after rain.
Navigating around the cliff to set up top rope anchors on the Main Wall, Lake Wall, and Tower Wall is not straightforward. It is easier to access the Mozart Wall, although still not entirely simple. It is even simpler on the Lilla Wall and the short section of the Tower Wall.
The main source for these route descriptions is this free guide provided by Erik Kuiper:
https://linkopingsklatterklubb.se/tl_files/forare/sjoanda-v1.0.1-2012-08-15.pdf
