Access info missing
Crag is missing access information, so remember that climbing is not always permitted. When parking, remember to leave unobstructed way for local habitants and agricultural machinery. Do not litter or make unnecessarily loud noises when at the cliff. Making fire is allowed only with a permit! Read more
We like Smith Rock State Park
Ben Berry
What's not to love? Smith has fantastic quality tuff with tiny nubbins, crimps and pockets, amazing rock formations like the iconic monkey face, and enough routes and boulders to keep anyone busy.
Drew LaPlante
WOW SMITH! Driving to Oregon from California was beautiful. As we neared Smith, the towering rocks could be seen in the distance. When we got there I looked over the canyon that was a climbing paradise. The orange and red rocks made a beautiful array of rock formations. After driving 14 hours, and the sun had set, we decided we needed to climb well into the night. Absolutely beautiful climbing. We spent a week straight, camping on the edge of the gorge that surrounded the amusement park of rocks. The minimal campsite was filled with climbers and good vibes. Each day was an adventure of sport routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.14, with amazing, classic routes that are known around the world! The rock is just perfect enough that your fingertips don't get raw, but instead you are limited by the amount of abuse your muscles can take throughout the day. Take a "rest" day and do a multi-pitch, or other fun trad, maybe even take a vertical trip up the unique and bizarre monkey face tower that overlooks all of smith rocks. If you need a real rest day, there are many trails that wander through the park and along the beautiful river that carves the gorge below. A beautiful and serene park that is amazingly well kept with hot showers that are included in the price of camping ($5 bucks a night). Pack a lunch in the morning, grab your stash of gear and many draws, and spend all day in the canyon. All routes are literally within a 20minute walk of each other...with over 1200 routes! Lots of sport, trad, multi-pitch, bouldering, aiding, and finger loving...Smith has it all!
Tony Hanssen
Awesome climbing and a great place to improve too.