Description

❄️🌼🍂
Most of the sectors are recommended for colder days. Mainly South facing orientation and exposure above the trees make all sectors, but "Anna Fritz Gedenkwand", perfect destination for late autumn, spring or even winter time. To climb here in summertime, better wait for cloudy cool days. "Anna Fritz Gedenkwand" is the only sector that is climbable in summertime, earlier the day.

💧
Although there is no really rain protected sector you can climb shortly after rain at all sectors but "Anna Fritz Gedenkwand". Only the cracks can drain a while.

💪⚙️
In this part of Wiesent-Valley you get the longest crags in northern Frankenjura, like the opposite crags "Burggalienreuth" etc. Mostly vertical long climbs on crimps interspersed with overhanging passages on pockets.
Furthermore there is a bunch of old classic routes where you might take some mobile gear and a portion of nerves. Perfect for experience-oriented climbers.

👶
All crags are very unsuitable for small kids. If you bring a sitter, only recommended sector is "Weiße Wand".

🍽🍻🛌
Next Camping is in Moritz or Allersdorf. A lot of Accommodation is in and close to Gößweinstein, as well as shopping facilities and Restaurants/Cafés.

🏊🎸
There's a free swimming pool in Gößweinstein.

💎 Goodies

soft:
- Direkter Norisbabaweg
- rechte Südwand (Weiße Wand)

medium:
- Sarg (crack)
- Scheltopusik
- Grüne Mamba (crack)
- Direkter Bergfexenweg

hard:
- Kara Buran
- Schwarzfahrer
- Ronja, die Räubertochter

Routes on Stempfermühle - West
51 sport 10 trad 2 Likes
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André Donk
A. Donk
from Frankenjura
Hanna Vartia
H. Vartia
from Europe
Tim De Mazière
T. De Mazière
from Europe
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Stempfermühle - West

Climbing has been limited!

⛔️ 🦅
On this crag climbing at "Sachsenturm" and "Behringergedenkwand" is prohibited from 1.February until 30. of June because of breeding birds. Rest is open all year until there are no signs at the wall.

🚗
Parking is right next to the street in Wiesent-Valley at a small lay-by with an old signboard. Approaching from West drive via "Ebermannstadt" up the river towards "Behringersmühle". Parking is 1.15 km after the junction towards "Leutzdorf", about 7 km after "Muggendorf". Approaching from East drive via Gößweinstein/Behringersmühle down the Wiesent-valley towards "Ebermannstadt". Parking is to your left 1.7 km after junction towards "Waischenfeld".

🚶‍♂️
Anna Fritz Gedenkwand:
Walk down the street (towards "Ebermannstadt"/"Muggendorf") for 60 meters and walk up the hill to your right. You already can spot the sector from the street.

Norisbabawand:
Walk up the Street (towards "Behringersmühle") for about 100 meters until there's a safety fence to your left. Walk behind that fence and go ahead the path leading to the already visible wall.

Sachsenturm:
Walk up the Street (towards "Behringersmühle") for about 180 meters. The tower is visible from the street already, search for a path leading to the wall. It's not very frequented, maybe the path became overgrown.

Weiße Wand:
Walk up the Street (towards "Behringersmühle") for about 250 meters. There is a path to your left leading up the slope and further to the already visible wall.

Behringer Gedenkwand:
Go to "Weiße Wand", go ahead the path leaving the wall to your left. Cross the dry creek and follow the path until there's a blue arrow pointing up a slope. Go up there and you'll reach the sector.
Take the second paring in the woods. Follow the streambed for 300 m until you see the wall to your right. Then turn right and follow the path until you see the trail to your left after 60 m heading up to the wall.