Stockholm's most eye-catching and impressive rock wall is majestically located on the southern tip of Stora Skramsö 15 km NO Nynäshamn. The panoramic view of the Stockholm archipelago from the top of the wall is phenomenal. The crag is divided into three huge slices with big flat walls facing the water and a large roof of overhangs in the middle of the cliff with tons of blocks below, which testify to the earlier huge rock fall. The climbing is naturally protected, mixed or bolted, and long routes with technical face climbing on slabs with some cracks here and there are predominant. Some of the more rarely climbed routes may have some old rusty bolts that are untrustworthy, however, some of the more popular routes have been renovated and new anchors have also been added. Occasionally there is growing lava on some of the routes, so bring a brush. Visiting Stora Skramsö is an experience in itself and is ideally suited for a weekend trip with an overnight stay. Overnight accommodation is advantageously done on the small island opposite the cliff (Lilla Skramsö). The anchors on the routes are quite easy to access from the top but keep in mind that you might need an extra rope stump/loop as the anchors are often a bit inside the edge.
Nowadays Stora Skramsö is quite easily accessible as the Stockholm Climbing Association has bought a rowing boat that you can use freely to cross the bay to the cliff. The code for the boat's lock can be obtained by emailing storaskramso@stkf.se (autoresponder) here you also get detailed and up-to-date instructions about the use of the boat, or for example if the code is changed.
Environment: South, fully open. The cliff dries quickly. Conditions at Skramsö can vary greatly from really cold and windy to very hot.
