Description

ATTENTION:
The previously recommended parking opposite house no. 9 along Svarttjärnsvägen is now disapproved by the house owner and he requests that no one park there or directly across from him on the other side. He wants people to only park at the end of the road.

This unusually exotic crag is well hidden in the middle of the forest out on Ingarö. The main attraction is a strongly overhanging only 8 meters high wall with an exceptional rib-like and grippy structure that is very unusual. The short routes offer very technical and intense climbing right from the start, which is extremely entertaining. Although they are pretty short, these routes are considered to be among the very best in Stockholm, and if you climb 8a and above this is one of the places in Stockholm you should visit. The easier routes are a blended compote of trad, mixed and bolted routes. Some of these are indeed quite ok/fun, but they probably work more as a filler.

A giant rockfall took place at Rasväggen in the winter of '98, which makes it a bit awkward to move around that part of the wall. A 50-ton block has on a later occasion slipped down a bit to the left of the route Corn flakes and therefore the hangers on that block are unscrewed, and these routes are therefore removed from this guide.

The sometimes solitary anchor bolts on top of the routes have been equipped with extra ring-bolts here and there, but precautions should be taken when lowering down as there are many old carabiners sitting in the hangers. The steepest part of the main wall (Huvudväggen) is clean from moss, other routes may need some brushing.

Environment:
South-Southwest, partially open to the sun. Somewhat strange enclosed environment. Good in spring.

Svarttjärn

The area is access sensitive!

The previously recommended parking opposite house no. 9 along Svarttjärnsvägen is now disapproved by the house owner and he requests that no one park there or directly across from him on the other side. He wants people to only park at the end of the road where there is a small space for only two cars.

The parking situation can sometimes be problematic if many climbers arrive on the same day. Newer block or use any of the house owners parking space along the road. The parking near the end of Svarttjärnsvägen is not really a proper parking space. You can park there but only twocars can fit. If the road is full of cars there will most likely be problems. If that's the case, please park somewhere else far away!

Directions:
Take Värmdöleden (road 222) towards Gustavsberg. Turn off towards Ingarö. Turn right in Brunn, towards Mörtviken. Follow the road for about 2.7 km and turn left onto Enkärrsvägen. Follow the road for about 1.8 km and then turn right onto Svarttjärnsvägen. Follow the road for a couple of hundred meters and park approximately at the end of Svarttjärnsvägen. Follow the path (which initially goes immediately to the right of Svarttjärnsvägen) about 250 m. The path splits (T-cross), take the right (the one on the left is marked in blue). Walk a bit along the lake and turn left along a ridge-like formation in rocky terrain. A telephone line appears after 100 meters. Continue in the same direction along the slabs and you should enter a smaller path. After a couple of hundred meters the path goes down a small slope through the forest and pretty soon the crag should be visible to the left. If you missed the path down trough the forrest you will most likely very soon see a cairn (röse), you can access the crag by turning right at the cairn and continue about 25 meters through the bush. The crag is immediately below and continues to the left. The whole walk takes about 12 minutes from the car.

Public transport:
Bus 428 from Slussen. Get off at Enkärrsvägen. Travel time 39 min. Continue with the same direction as above.