Description

☀️SUN DURING THE DAY: During all the morning, then it sets in the early afternoon

🧭EXPOSURE: SE

📆BEST PERIOD:
Winter is the best period for the grip, but autumn and spring are the best period to enjoy the area

👪FAMILY FRIENDLY: NO, the sector is a rock fall over the cape and it's accessible walking on steep rocks

📵PHONE SIGNAL : NO, download the topo before going to the crag

🪨ROCK TYPE: The rock is limestone, often quite sharp and in most of the boulder of a good quality. There are some boulder that are not climbable for the bad quality of the rock

⚠️WARNING: The path is currently closed for the risk of falling rocks, check the provisions of the municipality before going there

🪨🌊🇬🇧
Directly by the sea, between the Baia dei Saraceni and the naturist beach of Punta Crena, lies a small sector characterized by a rockfall located beneath a cliff. The area is enclosed by a natural rocky cave that descends vertically into the sea and shelters a small beach. This spot not only offers climbing opportunities but also the chance to enjoy a quiet day away from the crowded beaches of the coast.
The surrounding cliff features a few routes suitable for Deep Water Soloing (DWS), as well as the possibility of diving and snorkeling to admire the seabed and its rich marine life, perfect for a warm, sunny day.

The climbing options include some routes ranging from easy to intermediate levels, on boulders of various shapes and sizes. It’s ideal for those who want a relaxing climbing experience by the sea without pushing too hard. Landings are often marked by rocks scattered on the sand, making the use of a crash pad and the presence of a spotter essential for safe climbing.

🪨🌊🇮🇹
Direttamente sul mare, tra la Baia dei Saraceni e la spiaggia naturista di Punta Crena, si trova un piccolo settore caratterizzato da una caduta di massi situata sotto una falesia. L’area è delimitata da un antro roccioso naturale che scende verticalmente sul mare e racchiude una piccola spiaggia. Questo luogo offre non solo la possibilità di arrampicare, ma anche di trascorrere una giornata tranquilla lontano dalle spiagge affollate del litorale.
La scogliera che circonda la zona presenta alcune vie per il Deep Water Soloing (DWS), oltre alla possibilità di tuffarsi e fare snorkeling per ammirare il fondale marino e la ricca fauna, ideale durante una calda giornata di sole.
L’arrampicata propone alcuni passaggi di difficoltà dal facile al medio, su massi di diverse forme e dimensioni, con difficoltà adatte per chi desidera godersi una giornata rilassante sul mare senza affrontare vie troppo impegnative. L’atterraggio è spesso caratterizzato da rocce sparse sulla sabbia, rendendo indispensabile l’uso del crash pad e la presenza di un paratore per arrampicare in sicurezza.

History

🇬🇧
The sector was discovered in May 2024 by Marino Furlanetto and Mikael Treppo, the cleaning work started with the help of Davide Lanfranchi. Surely some climbers have been there before in the past because there are some old bolts on the crag over the boulders, but there are no reports about that.

🇮🇹
Il settore è stato scoperto nel Maggio 2024 da Marino Furlanetto e Mikael Treppo. I lavori di pulizia dei blocchi sono cominciati con l'aiuto di Davide Lanfranchi, con il quale sono stati liberati i primi blocchi. Sicuramente in passato qualche arrampicatore conosceva la zona perché sono presenti dei chiodi nella parete soprastante ai blocchi, ma non ci sono documentazioni a riguardo.

Tana del Luasso

The area is access sensitive!

⚠️The access to the crag is currently closed because there is the risk of falling rocks, check the provisions of the municipality before going there.

🅿️ Parking: click on the 🅿️ on the map to be redirected to the maps on your browser

🚶🏼Approach: 10-15 min of walk, the last part of the approach is on steep rocks

🇬🇧
From Finale Ligure take the SS1 Via Aurelia until the tunnel at the end of Varigotti. There is a Parking at each side of the tunnel, the parking on the eastern side is free, but it consist of just a few spaces on the side of the road.
On the western side of the tunnel there's a bigger parking with payment required. From there you can enter the town by foot and reach the path that bring you to the area.
During summer season it can be difficult to find a parking due to the tourism of Varigotti beaches.