Description

Terra promessa:
Terra promessa is one of the most famous and large crags of Arco. It collects all the climbing styles, from huge overhangs to technical slabs. Nice tufas, crimpers, pockets, slopers, …
there is everything a climber could wish for! The routes around the sixth grade are mainly short and technical, while the hardest ones are much more varied.
The left sector is nestled in the woods, so the wall remains in shadow for most of the day. Here the routes are long and go from 6c to 8b. The right sector has both the easiest and the hardest lines, from 6a to 8c+. The extreme right part of this sector offers a nice overhang with a beautiful view over the Alto Garda valley.
The approach to Terra promessa is short and easy and the crag base is comfortable. All the equipment is good.

If your climbing holiday brought you to Arco, you have to spend some time on Terra promessa walls. The area is quiet, nice and slightly cooler than the other crags of the Sarca valley.

Terra di nessuno
Terra di nessuno is the extreme left part of the rocky belt of Terra Promessa, but the climbing here is totally different, as the features of this place are bouldery lines and traverses.
The main wall is a 20/30 degrees overhanging panel with a nice limestone having many concretions.
Climbing requires high strength and good fingers, while generally endurance is not so fundamental. There are only a few lines with long traverses that reach the length of 20/25 meters.
The approach to this wall is steep but really short and the crag base is comfortable.
Best seasons are Spring and Autumn, even if it is possible to climb well during the windy days of Summer.
On the sides of the main wall there are two smaller walls with some interesting lines.

If you are a boulderer, do not miss this masterpiece area and its short beasts!

History

Terra promessa:
The first routes of Terra promessa were set up by Francois Legrand in the 1997, while he was competing in the Rock Master festival. In the following years the crag grew up thanks to Diego Mabboni, R. Scherer, G. Horhager. M. Knaubert and other climbers. In 2018 Terra promessa got some new routes bolted by Severino Scassa, Laura Giunta and Marco Ferrari.

Terra di nessuno:
The story tells that this crag was discovered by the rock climbing legend Roberto Bassi, who called the crag Area di Wood. The story of this wall has then fallen into oblivion and been forgotten for many years, when Lorenzo De Bonis came here with his bolting vision. He immediately asked the help of Nicola Trenti to valorize this crag. The resulting routes generally follow the logic lines of the wall.