This mighty gorge first gained repute as a mecca for multi-pitch traditional climbing, with routes up to 600m in length. For most sport climbers however, since the late 1990s the name ‘Terradets’ has become synonymous with just one sector — Paret de les Bruixes (the Witches Wall). Although now becoming rather polished this is still a world-class sector and attracts climbers from all over the world. This mighty gorge has far more to offer, however, than just one cliff: the north-facing sectors of Regina and La Pizarra provide further high standard tufa-grappling, while Els Isards and Si Fas Free No Fa Fred give excellent middle grade face climbing on superb compact rock.
Two more sectors — the impressively steep walls of Clot Fondo and the superbly positioned El Doll-Clot de Miquí (see separate crag), which is actually situated approximately halfway between Terradets and Camarasa, further expand the options here.
🧗♂️ Els Isards
Decription: Although nowhere near as popular as Terradets’ major crags, this sector offers some good face climbs.
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Driving into the gorge from the south, turn left into the picnic/parking area known as ‘Font de Les Bagasses’ (P1).
🚶♂️From here walk balk along the roadside (south) for approximately 300m. The first climbs start just above the road, while the routes higher up are gained by scrambling up a rather vegetated trail (5-15 minutes from P1). Orientation: Southwest.
⛔️There is a seasonal bird-ban in place for this sector — no climbing between January 1st and July 31st.
🧗♂️La Pizarra
This roadside sector features a selection of hard routes. Its Northwesterly orientation means it remains shaded until late in the afternoon, but can also affect the time the crag takes to dry after long periods of rain. Orientation: Northwest.
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From the parking area by the stone bridge crossing the River Noguera (P2, Pont de Rajola) walk north along the side of the C-13 for approximately 300m. The sector is situated immediately above the road (3 min).
Note 1: if P2 is full, park at the northern end of P1. Note 2: if approaching from the south, turning into P2 is very dangerous, as it is very difficult to see oncoming traffic around a sharp bend. It’s better to drive on for 1km and turn the car around at P3.
🧗♂️Si Fas Free no Fa Fred
This sector is situated at the foot of Paret de Les Bagasses — an enormous wall of rock up to 500m high with many multi-pitch traditional routes (as well as a few fully bolted ones). The rock on sector Si Fas Free no Fa Fred is truly exceptional and the crag is fantastic for climbers who enjoy face climbing in the 6th and low 7th grades. Orientation: Southeast.
Note: if there are any parties climbing the multi-pitch routes directly above the sector there is a danger of falling rocks.
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The approach used by local climbers for many years is as follows: start from the parking area by the stone bridge crossing the River Noguera (P2, Pont de Rajola). If this is full (there are only a few places) park at the northern end of the picnic grounds at the Font de les Bagasses parking area (P1). Cross the bridge over the river then scramble up and right on smooth polished rock, then back leftwards (there are wire cables for assistance on the trickier sections) following a well-marked path to join the railway track, which is followed rightwards through the first short tunnel (tunnel Nº 30). On leaving the tunnel turn sharply right and scramble up the shoulder of the tunnel entrance, then continue up and left across the hillside to the base of the sector
(15 minutes).
Note 1: if approaching from the south, turning into P2 is very dangerous, as it is very difficult to see oncoming traffic around a sharp bend. It’s better to drive on for 1km and turn the car around at P3.
🚷Note 2: even though local climbers have been using this approach for decades, because of the tunnel crossing it is not only dangerous, but also most probably illegal!
🧗♂️Clot Fondo
Seen from the main road on the opposite side of the river, this sector looks very impressive and seems to hold huge potential for hard routes. Unfortunately, on closer inspection some of the rock is less than perfect and that, combined with the complicated approach, has so far limited development to just a dozen, or so, routes. The sector is split into two parts — ‘upper’ and ‘lower’ — divided by the railway track. So little has been done on the upper crag that we are not presenting a topo at this time: for interested parties there are currently four routes (6b-8a+) and several impressive-looking bolted projects, with potential for many more.
Orientation: Southeast.
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Start from the parking area by the stone bridge crossing the River Noguera (P2, Pont de Rajola). If this is full (there are only a few places) park at the northern end of the picnic grounds at the Font de les Bagasses parking area (P1). Cross the bridge over the river (as for the approach to sector Si Fas Free no Fa Fred) but on reaching the opposite bank turn left immediately and follow a well-marked path horizontally leftwards for approximately 600m to where it joins the railway line. Continue for 100m, but 10m before the line enters the next tunnel (Nº 28) follow the path up and leftwards (green paint marks). Continue for approximately 300m (one is actually above the sector here) passing two electricity pylons, until it is possible to drop down and left to the extreme left hand side of the upper crag (25 minutes from P2). The lower crag is reached by continuing downhill, passing the exit of the tunnel (30 minutes from P2).
Note 1: if approaching from the south, turning into P2 is very dangerous, as it is very difficult to see oncoming traffic around a sharp bend. It’s better to drive on for 1km and turn the car around at P3.
🚷Note 2: the practice of some local climbers is to consult the train timetable and walk directly through tunnel Nº 28, thus saving about 10 minutes for the upper crag, and 15 minutes for the lower. This shortcut is not only dangerous, but also most probably illegal!
🧗♂️Sector Regina
An awesome sector featuring some of the best ‘tufa’ climbing in the region! The only downsides to this crag are 1) the walk-in is rather brutal (especially as you will probably be doing it when the temperature is high) and 2) the warm-up climbs start at 7b/+.
Orientation: North.
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From the Font de les Bagasses parking area (P1) continue driving along the C-13 for approximately 1.5km towards Tremp before turning right on a minor road (C-147z) immediately before the first road-tunnel. Park on the right, 20m from the junction (P3). Cross back over the main C-13 road and follow a well-marked path (signposted ‘Cellers 2h’) up the side-gorge. This gorge is the ‘Barranc del Bosc’ and on the opposite side one can see a huge wall — Roca Regina, which is home to many multi-pitch traditional routes. Continue along the main path zigzagging up the hillside until a trail (marked by a cairn and yellow paint) heads up scree-slopes on the left. Follow the trail, up the scree at first then through trees, using the occasional section of fixed rope, eventually reaching the base of the right-hand side of the sector
(40 minutes).
🧗♂️Paret de les Bruixes
A beautiful sector featuring dozens of super-classic 7th and 8th grade routes on skinny tufas and horizontal breaks. So good is the sector that, unsurprisingly, many of the routes are becoming quite polished.
Orientation: Southwest.
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From the Font de les Bagasses parking area (P1) continue driving along the C-13 for approximately 1.5km towards Tremp before turning right on a minor road (C-147z) immediately before the first road-tunnel. Pass the parking area for Sector Regina (P3) and continue driving along the C-147z for 250m and park either just before or just after the dam (P4). On the far side of the dam iron rungs lead up a short rock wall, then a well-marked path winds up the hillside to the base of the left-hand side of the cliff
(10 minutes).
