Description

Töllsjö consists of three crags of which two (Huvudväggen and Övre väggen) are good with quite many spectacular and fun routes. There is only one climbed line at the third crag (EU-väggen).

ASPECT AND CLIMATE
The crags face south and southwest and are in the sun until about 3 pm. The routes dry pretty quickly. The surroundings are a bit marshy which means that mosquitoes can be a problem from time to time. There are good possibilities for a swim or two in the lake but DO NOT dive from the bridge (there is a pole just under the surface).

THE ROUTES
Huvudväggen is about 20 m high and starts quite steep, gets a bit slabby in the middle and finishes with a big roof. This makes the routes a bit cruxy. Övre väggen and EU-väggen are overhanging and about 15 m high. Most of the routes are well worth doing. All routes are bolted and equipped with lower-offs. You’ll find some bouldering on the blocks around the crags (this is not Fontainebleau though).

History

The crag was discovered in the end of 1990’s by Johan Schollin who got permission for bolting from the landowner. Several lines were cleaned and at least partially bolted by Johan and Ulf Mälkki Ahlberg .These project were later ”taken” by Jens Larssen who developed Huvudväggen during the summer of 2000. Johan Luhr was the man behind most of the routes at Övre väggen one year later.

Töllsjö

Climbing has been limited!

Some years there is a climbing ban from 1st January to 15th July because of nesting birds. The ban might only be valid for parts of the crag depending on the placement of the nest. Keep yourself updated and consider the ban as a norm.

Check even https://access.bergsport.se/tollsjo/.

🚗
From Göteborg take road 40 towards Borås. Leave the motorway at exit 80, Kullamotet (signs for Töllsjö/Bollebygd) and follow the signs towards Töllsjö. In Töllsjö turn left at the church (signed Morjhult 5 km). Follow the road for about 1 km and park on the right side of the road (just in front of the main crag).
The drive is about 55 km.
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Huvudväggen is clearly visible from the parking lot. To get to Övre väggen follow the path past Huvud­väggen and after a while you’ll arrive at the crag. EU-väggen is easiest reached from the road.