HUVUDVÄGGEN (Main wall)
Vertical to slightly overhanging 8-12 meter high sports crag with about twenty recently renovated routes and some newly developed ones. All routes are fully bolted and equipped with anchor on top. Tumbaklippan is very easily accessible with excellent parking opportunities just 100 meters from the wall. The rock is firm and compact with an unusually high quality for being a crag in Stockholm, although some of the routes can be a bit sharp and crimpy.
The best range is between 6b+ to 7a+. In this range, there are a lot of fun routes to climb. However, be prepared that the climbing is quite tricky and intense sometimes, which requires high demands on footwork and balance, hence the routes will probably put up much more resistance than what you would expect. A couple of easier new routes are also being completed, which will make this crag more complete.
The old mixed routes to the right of the main wall are now fully bolted. From the beginning, they were protected almost exclusively with pitons and some occasional fixed gear.
It's easy to get up on the ledge above the routes located to the left of the wall if you want to set up a toprope. Just walk/climb up to the left of the route; "Bättre än dålig men sämre än bra". You can access the routes all the way to "Nuke the Yuppies" from this ledge. To access the other anchors, you need to go around the entire crag to the right. There is a suitable path that leads straight up into the woods directly from the walkway when you come from the parking lot. You might need to rappel down a bit to reach the anchors.
ENVIRONMENT
Southwest, shaded by some trees. The rock usually needs a couple of days to dry if it has rained a lot (Huvudväggen), but Svaväggen dries much faster, so go to that sector if it is a bit damped at Huvudväggen. It is excellent to bring children to this crag, although some pieces of glass can be found in the grass here and there at Huvudväggen. You can shout and live about how much you want by the wall because there is otherwise some shoal and noise from football pitches, playgrounds, etc, nearby.
SVAVÄGGEN
Eight to eleven meters high wall with one section located openly along a walkway and another part located a bit hidden behind some trees. Newly completely renovated. Remarkably good rock quality. All routes are fully bolted and equipped with an anchor on top. This sector dries relatively fast and faster than the main wall. Child friendly. There is also a playground 50 meters from the wall that is being built.
TROLLVÄGGEN
Quite an interesting and very formation-rich overhanging small sector with stacked boulders and blocks that give short, hard, and very steep routes. Decently clean from the moss as the routes are very overhanging, but there may be some moss at the top. Just one bolt on top of the routes.