Peacefully located crag in a nice nature environment along Sörmlandsleden next to the beautiful little lake Tyresö-Flaten, 400 meters south of Nyfors. Here are good opportunities for sausage grilling and various other refreshing activities. The crag is vertical to slightly overhanging but with a rather moderate height of around 10 meters. The climbs are sometimes on smaller/medium sized crimps and edges, but there are also some cracks of different quality here and there as well. The routes are both mixed, bolted and completely naturally protected. The standard of the bolting is unfortunately not so good, with sparsely placed bolts on most of the routes, although two or maybe three routes are ok. Most of the routes also lack proper anchor on top. Luckily there are quite many trees close to the edge that you can use if you want to rig a top rope etc. It's very easy to walk up to the top on the left side of the main wall.
The left part is a bit mossy, but overall it ain't too bad, but bringing a brush could come in handy. This crag would benefit from a number of new bolts and anchors, however, you might get along quite well anyhow, and in combination with some socializing in the nice nature environment and maybe a dip, it might still be worth a visit. Don't forget to bring some gear, some sausage, family, kids (attention, there are cliffs/ledges a few meters from the wall where kids could fall down and get seriously injured or die). And hey, don't let the route names discourage you.
In addition to the Main wall, there are also two smaller sectors:
Don't miss the "Wall by the water" located down by the water fifty meters northwest of the Main wall, it's nice and has two more modern bolted routes. Kojklippan has only two ridiculously badly bolted forgotten routes. Kojklippan is located in a little narrow ravine some 20 meters in front of the Main wall.
Environment Main wall: West facing. Some trees in front, but mostly open for the sun.
Environment Wall by the water: Southwest. Open.
Environment Kojklippan: North facing.
