Untermaiselstein is a small village at the foot of the Rottachberg, a conglomerate mountain with thousands of boulders and sports climbing routes. All of the climbing described here can be accessed from the hiking trail at the south-western foothills of the Rottachberg that starts at the recycling containers near the main road along the western side of the Rottachberg.
Other areas on the Rottachberg are the Rottach bouldering area, the bouldering and sport climbing areas around Freidorf (Parkplatzwand, NePaPla-Wand, Quellwand), the large sport climbing area Falkenstein, the steep walls around Vorderburg and the smaller sport climbing sectors in the forest, such as Haidt and Papperlapapp. Taken together, these contain easily over 1000 boulders and sport climbs.
Climbing and bouldering here happens on a type of conglomerate rock called Nagelfluh. Climbing on Nagelfluh is characterized by often tiny pebbles and pockets that require strong fingers and lots of control in strenuous positions. This means lines are not always obvious, but there is a plethora of possible climbs and combinations, often with interesting moves that take some figuring out. Hard climbs are often centered around tiny two-finger crimps or bad pinches in steep terrain. Many climbs are "board style", but with smaller holds. Climbing here is therefore perfect training to get strong fingers and shoulders.
*Recommended boulders:*
- Radix, 4+ at Hidden Valley: Great hold shapes.
- Super Dickmanns, 5, Rockland: Fun problem on huge pebbles.
- Süße Wüste, 5+, Hidden Valley: Another one with great rock quality.
- Canale Grande, 6A, Hidden Valley: Obvious line up a black stripe.
- Right Jugger, 6B, Rockland: The classic 6B of the area with hard moves between two huge jugs.
- Kieselwiesel, 6C+, Rockland: Amazing problem on small pebbles.
- Cross, 7A, Rockland: Just one hard move, but it's spectacular.
- 7-up, 7A+, Rockland: Cool technical problem with underclings and a huge hole.
- Hidden Beauty, 7B, Hidden Valley: Beautiful crimpy problem straight through the main wall.
- Flum, 7C+, Maiselwände: Perfect powerful problem with crimps, slopers, underclings and a big pocket.
- Chrystalt, 8A+, Maiselwände: Technical climbing on tiny crimps and pinches.