Description

The modern history of Kaivoskallio is quite faint since the cliff has stayed under the radar for many years. There has been irregular climbing during all those years but there are no written documents. Now as the situation has settled the area will become quite popular since the rock is very splendid and the setting is awesome.

Rock is smooth and the friction is good. The routes are not many but all are of good quality for their grade. The location in the middle of Espoo is more or less perfect with ample parking and very good public transportation.

The green fairy tale forest in front of the cliff blossoms beautifully white in mid May. The main species of wood is called bird cherry (ie. tuomi). Later in mid June the trees may be fully covered in white nets as bird-cherry ermine worms (ie. tuomenkehrääjäkoi - a species of butterfly) eat all the leaves. Later in the summer bird-cherry grows new leaves and the forest has beautiful autumn colors in October.

History

Kaivoskallio near Leppävaara is one of the oldest climbing areas in Finland. The first attempts were done by Matti A Jokinen and Kari Eskola in 1956. The old pitons on the main wall date back to 1961 once Matti A Jokinen and Max Tallberg did the first ascents of the first routes.

The more than 60 year old rusty pitons in place are integral part of early Finnish climbing history and should be treated with care and love (ie. not suitable for pro).

Routes on Urheilupuiston Kalliosaari
8 sport 5 trad 26 boulder 42 Likes
Premium topo by Unesco
Fredrik Sundman
from Espoo, Finland
Markus Sojakka
from Helsinki
Urheilupuiston Kalliosaari

Climbing has been limited!

Leppävaaran urheilupuiston alueelle on valmistunut uusi asemakaava kesällä 2020. Asemakaavassa Kaivoskallion alue on merkitty lähivirkistysalueeksi (VL) ja lisäksi suojeltu muinaismuistona (sm).

Varsinaiset kaivoskuilut ovat mäen etelä-/kaakkoispäässä, eikä niistä voi erehtyä. Näissä kiipeilyä ei tule harrastaa. Myöskään kaivoskuilujen läheisyydessä olevia irtokiviä ei saa siirrellä.

Urheilupuiston alueella on paljon pysäköintitilaa normaaleja kaupunkisääntöjä noudattaen.

Short version in English:
Climbing in the old mine shafts in the southern part of the hill is forbidden by law. They are very obvious and you can't miss them.