If you selected the best boulder problems of this vast area, it would be one of the best
bouldering areas in Spain. Because of its activity and its veteran status, Valdesangil is
already a national reference and receives visits from climbers from all over Spain and
even from other parts of Europe. It is an area that provides a lot of scope in its 21 sectors,
with infi nite possibilities for boulder problems of diff erent types and with a variety
of holds. The granite in this chaotic sea of never-ending boulder problems is slightly
abrasive, but the quality of the moves only serves to enhance the potential of this great
bouldering area. When you arrive, you are sure to see so many boulders that you won’t
know where to start, and we therefore recommend the most-frequented sectors, where
the greatest activity and number of boulders can be found: Los Carabancheles, Matrix
and, at the end of the valley, Colmenero. There is still a lot to discover in this area of
great potential.
Practical guide:
Type of climbing: With so many boulders, the type of climbing is very varied. There are
problems with dynamic moves, technical problems, edges, a few slopers and above all,
small “chickpeas” and minute crimps, characteristic of the climbing in this area.
Grades: There is a good distribution of grades in all the sectors of Valdesangil, ranging
from 3+ to 8A (FB), and there are still many projects to be opened.
Boulders: There are approximately 1200 boulder problems distributed over 12 areas.
Heights range from 3 to 5 m on vertical faces and slight overhangs, most of them with
good falls. The use of a crash pad is recommended. In the Matrix and Moby Dyc areas
there are some tsunamis. The granite tends to be orange, compact and a bit abrasive.
Best season: The best time to climb in this area is without a doubt winter, although
climbing in autumn and spring is also possible if you avoid the heat. Avoid visiting the
area on very hot days, as the granite is a bit abrasive.
Water: There are fountains in the village of Valdesangil.
Where to stay: You can bivouac in your van at the football fi eld or in the parking area of
the Colmenero sector. There are country houses in Valdesangil and Béjar and Candelario
off er various types of accommodation.
Warnings: Look after the environment. Many of the climbing areas are on private property,
so please respect them.
