Velamsund consists of three smaller sectors with quite different characters. What they all have in common is that the quality of the stone is unusually high, with a very compact and solid stone for being a crag in Stockholm, or elsewhere for that matter. Among other things, there are some unusually nice and quite demanding low-angle routes on perhaps one of Stockholm's most amazing slab-wall (The Hills). At sector Incognito you will find a couple of short overhanging routes that are definitely worth a visit, especially if you're climbing towards 8a.
The walls are located in Velamsunds nature reserve in Nacka, which is a very popular and beautiful outdoor area with plenty of parking spaces for all visitors. The walk from the car park to the walls takes about 10 minutes and you can choose to walk the slightly shorter and steeper nature trail through the forest (orange marked), or follow a gravel road in a bend around the hill (only 100 meters extra).
The Hills:
The wall faces west and is surrounded by trees, but it will still be quite sunny up on the wall in summer. This is a fantastic attractive slab face with some thin demanding bolted routes as well as a couple of nice naturally protected easier distinctive crack lines. Up to 13 meters high.
Incognito:
Smaller south-facing wall with shady trees around the cliff, which makes it probably fine to climb here even on sunny days/afternoons. The main attraction is the about eight meters high overhanging wall where there are two ok 6c climbs, but above all also one of the better 7c+ climbs in Stockholm which alone is worth a visit in itself. On the slabby face just to the left of the wall there is a challenging and beautiful little slab-face with an odd and quirky style. Very compact and solid stone of the highest quality.
The Pit:
West facing, with some shady deciduous trees surrounding the crag. Two short sports routes and some nice steep boulders. Located only about 15 meters up from the dirt road. Worth a visit. Excellent rock.
The area is child-friendly, and especially sector Incognito with its relatively flat surface should work well for children of all kinds.
