Viks kile is a big sport climbing area with many good routes. The crag was for a long time the hardest one in the guide and even if it’s not the case anymore there are still plenty of difficult routes there. Viks kile consists of seven sectors: Balkongen, Verandan, Dungen, Dammen, Hyllan, Tysklandsklippan and Stugväggen.
There is a nice beach on the other side of the bay (see map). You can also take a swim on the Dungen’s side of the bay (from rocks).
ASPECT AND CLIMATE
Viks kile is best during the summer because all crags face north or are in the shade. Accordingly, the crags get dry very slowly and are not recommended for climbing during spring or autumn. Dungen, Balkongen and Verandan are the most open of all the crags and are climbable longest time during the year.
For more details see respectively sectors’s description.
THE ROUTES
All crags in Viks kile are mostly overhanging or very overhanging (there are some slabby routes at both ends of Dungen). The routes are between 10 and 35 m high. All routes but one are well bolted and all routes are equipped with lower-offs.
For more details see respectively sector’s description.
THE SECTORS
BALKONGEN & VERANDAN
These are two of the latest developed sectors in Viks kile. The routes here are entertaining and long (up to 35 m), vertical or slightly overhanging. All routes are bolted and equipped with lower-offs.
Balkongen faces northwest, is open (i .e. it can be a bit windy here), dries pretty quick and is in the sun after about noon. Verandan faces the same direction but comes into sun a bit later.
Approach: First follow the approach for Dungen. Well at Dungen, continue past that crag and you should soon see the routes at Verandan. Balkongen is located just to the left of Verandan on a big ledge (there is an approach/scramble route to the left around the corner). The walk is about 600 m.
DUNGEN
Climbing at Dungen is pumping, blocky and technical. Most routes are overhanging but some slabby ones have been developed at both ends of the crag. The routes are between 10 and 25 m long. All routes except one are bolted and all routes are equipped with lower-offs.
Dungen faces north and northwest and is perfect during hot summer days. The right part of the crag comes in the sun first after about 3 pm. Some routes dry very slowly.
Approach: From the car park follow the gravelled road for about 200 m and then follow the path on the field passing the sector of Dammen (the pond). Jump over the fence and keep left when the path forks. Continue through another gate (lock it after you passed!) and you’ll shortly arrive at the crag. The walk-in is about 500 m.
Do not move fences or leave gates open!
DAMMEN
A very steep crag. The routes are 10-25 m, bolted and most of them are equipped with lower-offs. On those that lack lower-offs, you must down climb the route anyway (to avoid a swim in the pond).
Dammen faces west and is best during hot summer days. However, the crag is in the sun after about 3 pm and can get very hot then. Some routes seep a bit after rain.
Approach: From the car park follow the gravelled road for about 200 m and then continue along the path on the field for about 100 m. The crag is clearly visible to the right. Do not move fences or leave gates open!
HYLLAN
A little, west facing crag above the L-bend and the turning space. Approach: To get there, follow the gravelled road for about 200 m and at the L-bend head upwards following the vague (basically not existing) and brushy path (the walk is about 300 m). Alternatively, you can use the approach for Tysklandsklippan.
TYSKLANDSKLIPPAN
Tysklandsklippan is 12-16 m high and a bit friable and loose. The climbing here is steep and quite technical.
All routes are bolted and equipped with lower-offs. There are a lot of ticks in the grass at the base of the crag.
The crag is facing north and therefore suitable for summer climbing. Some routes get dry very slowly. The crag is in the sun after 5-6 pm.
Approach: From the car park follow the vague path that in some places is marked with red tags to the crag (the walk is about 200 m).
STUGVÄGGEN
Stugväggen is a small crag up to 15 m high. All routes are bolted and have lower-offs. The crag is facing north.
Approach: Follow the left road from the T-junction until its end. Continue along a path for a while until you’ll see a summer cottage on the right. The crag is just beyond the house. The walk is about 750 m. Do not climb here when there are people in the house!
