PLEASE PARK AT THE NEW (MAY 2024) PARKING LOT SLIGHTLY MORE DOWN THE HILL.
Vindön is a small peninsula on the north side of island Orust. The crag was discovered in the beginning of the 1990's and since then some good routes have been established here.
ASPECT AND CLIMATE
The crag faces north and is therefore suitable for climbing during hot summer days. Some routes get dry very slowly while others are almost always climbable. The best conditions are usually found during June, July and August. There is a beach under the bridge between Vindön and the island of Orust.
THE ROUTES
The routes at Vindön are steep and bolted (there are some vertical ones too but that is not why you visit Vindön). The starts of the routes can be dirty but when you’re through this mossy stuff (it’s not as bad as it sounds) you can expect some high-quality overhangs. Almost all routes have lower-offs.
DIRECTIONS
From Göteborg take the E6 northwards. Leave the motorway at exit 96 .2, Torpmotet (signs for Orust/ Tjörn/Lysekil) and follow road 161 towards Lysekil. After 8 km turn left at a roundabout and follow road 160 towards Orust. After about 5 km you will pass a high bridge between mainland and the island of Orust. Turn right directly after the bridge (just before a tunnel) and park on the gravelled lot on your left side, sligthly down the hill (NOTE this is a new parking lot as for May 2024).
The drive is about 95 km.
Go back upphill and you should see the crag behind some summer houses. To get there, DO NOT walk through the summer house’s garden. Instead follow the narrow road for about 200 m. Then you should spot a path on the left side. Follow the path to the crag (the arête you arrive at is the start of Genua).
SÖDRA VINDÖN
The crag is in the south of peninsula and contains some rather easy and long top rope routes.
The crag faces south but is shaded in the lower parts by some thick vegetation meaning the lower parts of the crag could be wet for a while after rain.
All routes at the crag are climbed on top rope. There are n lower-offs on the top of the crag. but there are plenty of cracks there making setting up top ropes easy. The routes are slightly overhanging or the first 5-10 m and get easier thereafter. The rock quality is not always the best.
Approach: From the parking lot follow the gavelled road (private road , do not drive here) for about 200 m and you should spot the crag to the left of the road.
