Description

[IMPORTANT: READ ACCESS INFORMATION and don't climb on the forbidden boulders!]

Vingsand is indisputably one of Norway's best bouldering destinations. Not only the quality of the boulders make this a must-visit area for boulderers, but the scenery and wild nature also make for a unique bouldering experience difficult to compare to any other place in the world.

The bouldering in Vingsand is physical. Common features are good holds on perfectly shaped gneiss and granite. The boulders often encourage athletic climbing, don't be surprised if you find yourself doing a 180 and top out with toe-hooks on the lip of a roof. Exposed rocks requiring finger-strength and technique are also frequent.

The weather is, contrary to Trondheim, often very nice. And if you're unlucky and get caught in a storm, there is always some cave you can hide inside. Shirtless local climbers can be spotted in Vingsand caves in -10°C in January, but the best season is from March to October. Make sure you bring some mosquito-protection if you're visiting during summer though.

The mainland bouldering is not very localized, and a car is required to get around to most places. But if you are a crazy-person it is actually possible to take a bus to Vingsand. Bus 350 goes from Trondheim to Osen (https://www.atb.no/getfile.php/1329023-1547552158/Rutetabeller/V%C3%A5r%202019/AtB_rute_350_01.01.19.pdf) and bus 597 goes from Osen to Vingsand (https://www.atb.no/getfile.php/1317829-1531311366/Rutetabeller/Host18/AtB_rute597.pdf).

There is enough bouldering on the mainland to satisfy most visitors. However, traveling by boat to Helvika or Ramsøya is definitely recommended due to the quality of boulders found in these areas. The same goes for Skjærvøya and Hepsøya, which has seen some recent development, but there are still lots of stuff to be established at these islands. A boat can be rented for approximately 500 NOK plus gas expenses, at "Vingsand Rorbuer" and "Osen Fjordcamping". Contact the owners to check if there are some available. Get familiar with safety rules before venturing out into the sea. Daily passenger boats go from Sandviksberget Hurtigbåtkai to Ramsøya, Helvika, and Skjervøya (https://en-tur.no/nearby-stop-place-detail?id=NSR:StopPlace:42003). Make sure you catch your ride back if you attempt this!

Camping outside in Vingsand is ok. Norway has some regulations in regards to how long you're allowed to have a tent set up in one place, but as long as you are respectable and not disturbing any local inhabitants, this should not be a problem. If you're keen to set up a tent, the parking spot for the "Diamond Area" is recommended. Here you will have flat ground, a short distance to your car and a great view. N.B!! Put your tent up behind the small hill surrounding the parking so you are a bit out of sight and leaving room for other cars. Another option is to set up camp in Håmannvika. Here you will have access to an outside toilet, "Gapahuk," beach and barbeque (bring your own coal). If you choose to camp here, do not sleep inside the Gapahuk. Put your tent up on the grass a reasonable distance away from it. A pro tip for climbers wishing to reduce the cost of your visit is to bring a fishing rod to try your luck at living of mother nature.

The most central in-house accommodation (and nicest) is at "Vingsand Rorbuer." They have two apartments, housing 7 and 9 guests each. Rates are changing based on season. Contact information can be found on their website http://www.vingsandrorbuer.no/. There are also other options in vingsand as well as some airbnbs.

Another option is to rent a cabin at "Osen Camping." This is also an excellent option. The accommodation fee depends on what type of cabin you rent but is generally a bit cheaper than the previously mentioned option. Contact information at https://osen-fjordcamping.no/. They have small cabins for 4 persons, big cabins for 6-7 people and you can also park your van or motorhome here.

Your shopping needs are satisfied at Coop located in Osen, a 10-minute drive from Vingsand.

Please read the access description for the area before climbing. We all want to enjoy the climbing at Vingsand for the foreseeable future. Say hello to the locals and show that you are just a friendly nature enthusiast wishing the best for everyone using the area.

History

The development of bouldering in Vingsand started in the early 2000s with local "Tindegruppa"-bouldering legends Torstein Eide, Mats Mosti and Eivind Wang. Since then, the area has seen visitors from around the world, each leaving their mark on the place with their first ascents. Some familiar names which have contributed to the development are, Nalle Hukkataival, Guntram Jorg, Bernd Zangerl, Ethan Pringle and Niky Ceria.

The history of Vingsand has its light and dark sides. After an explosion in popularity in the early 2010s, some areas were closed to climbers. If you come to visit, please remember this and behave appropriately. Climbers need to show that we are indeed caring for the area and leaving no traces. Hopefully, the closed areas will be opened in the future, but as it is now climbers are not welcome in the areas lying past the Diamond area.

After the development of the mainland bouldering halted, climbers took to the seas and started developing the areas Helvika and Ramsøya. Ramsøya was given Norway's hardest boulder (?) by climbing legend Bernd Zangerl, "Shantaram." This enormous line traversing perfect granite pinches in a unique environment is a true testament to the hard bouldering at Vingsand.

Local Martin Mobråten also made big news with the first ascent of "Wolverine," a powerful and steep line demanding in all aspects. The Line was also given attention by Nalle Hukkataival who gave it the fitting description of the "Gregg Valentino"-project (Google it).

During the development of Vingsand, names or grades were never given much attention. Perhaps the quality of the boulders spoke for themselves. As a result, there are probably more established boulders than the topo covers. Some names might have been changed during the course of time, if a problem is logged with the wrong name, please reach out so the mistake can be corrected. There is also still a vast potential for further development. If you feel the presence of your sense of exploration, please feel free to establish new lines, and participate in writing the history of Vingsand for yourself. If you do establish a new boulder, please don't hesitate to reach out at tarjeihamre@yahoo.no, so others may also find your new gem. You can also contribute to the topo using the premium topo suggestion feature in 27crags, doing this will reward you in more premium time.

RECOMMENDED BOULDERS:
Bestevennbuldern 6A
Trolldeig 6B
Balder (Langveggen venstre) 6C
Sekseen i sunnihallen 6C
Nazi Nøff 6C
Storm 7A
Mørketid 7A+
Langfredag 7B
Gamle Ørn 7B (sandbag)
Øyenstikker 7B+
Feit Ørn Flyg Lavt 7C
Circus Negrito 7C
Yggdrasil 7C/+
Tiken Jah Fakoli 7C+
Lynx 8A
Origin 8A/+
Talib 8A+
The Diamond 8B
Shantaram 8B+

Routes on Vingsand
500 boulder 85 Likes
Premium topo by Vingsand Pirates
Mattias Hornum
from Trondheim
Martin Mobråten
from Trondheim, Norway
Tarjei Hamre
from Trondheim, Norway
Vingsand

The area is access sensitive!

Due to issues related to herding sheep, the areas around Dalai Lama and Blekksprut are closed. Please respect this and do not climb or venture around these areas.

GENERAL:
Vingsand is an area with a sensitive and pure nature. Please behave appropriately when bouldering here. Take all your trash with you and use existing paths to the best of your ability. Also, when parking, make sure your car is not in the way for other drivers.

ELDORADO:
If climbing on eldorado sector please be discrete, and make little noise. NO LARGE CROWDS. If you are a bigger group find a different location or split up. This area is close to some houses, and the noise carries.

HEPSØYA:
Park at the designated P-spot (map) but park at the inner "pier" on the side closest to land. If two boats are traveling: tie the second boat to the first. This is private parking but has been allowed. If you see people there please explain how long you will be staying and for what purpose.

SKJERVØYA:
Public boat parking

HELVIKA:
Small boats can be left on shore and pushed out to sea.