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The style of climbing is quite old school here. Predominantly vertical routes on pockets and a lot of classic lines like dihedrals and cracks might delight especially beginners and advanced climbers.
The deeper you keep going into the valley the harder the routes get. At "Wüstenstein" you get hard endurance classics from the 80s and some steep boulder routes at "Wüstenstein Nebenmassiv" or "Dachstein"
"Treunitzer Wand" is ideal for beginners with it's pitted slabs.
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A few sectors get sun at afternoon ("Wüstenstein", "Gelbe Wand") but mainly all routes are quite shady so that the best season is summer and autumn.
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The exposed sectors "Treunitzer Pfeiler", "Gelbe Wand" and "Vorderer Paradiestalwächter" dry fast but all other sectors drain after winter or long rain periods. Especially at "Wüstenstein" there are whole waterfalls in between dry sections.. depends on what route you want to climb it can be worth a try. You should know about the local conditions then.
Best temporary rain protected sector is "Wüstenstein".
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All sectors are very suitable for kids without doubt. Only exception is "Paradieswand & Bamberger Pfeiler"
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Next Camping is "Camping Waldmühle" in "Freienfels". Best Beer you get at "Brauerei Hübner" in Steinfeld, where you might get the best and cheapest fried potatoes around.
Further chopping facilities are located in "Hollfeld", down south the street.
💎 Goodies
super soft:
- Lichtmessweg
- Schluchtriss
soft:
- Na Bravo
- Zeiselweg
- Verschneidung (Gelbe Wand)
- Nordwand (Vorderer Paradietalwächter)
medium:
- Flug in die Nacht
- Tschernobyl
- Felsteufelweg
hard:
- Nosegrind
- Sahara
- Oase
- Schwarze Wand
- Fata Morgana
- Nikotin Corner
extreme:
- 17 + 4