The Wonka Cave is a wondrous addition to the roof bouldering in the New River Gorge region. Beautiful speckled rock offers delightful crimps, slots, and pockets that lead to an unusual shelf, allowing for always-dry topouts. The entire roof and shelf are capped, keeping the roof dry from all precipitation. The only time the lines in this roof are wet is from condensation, which is an infrequent affair of very warm, wet weather after a long stretch of cold. Chris Marley can be credited with finding and developing almost all the lines in the cave. While the grade range is broad, the more difficult lines are highlighted and this cave boasts the New River Gorge's first V14 (and as of 10/2022, the only established line of this grade). It is not difficult to figure out and follow the holds on the lines out the roof. Although there are variations to most of the lines, branch points are obvious and there is little criss-crossing. As a bonus, the Lateral Collateral and Insurrection Boulders has been included. The Insurrection Boulder offers a great array of moderates on slightly overhung rock. A few minutes down the main trail past the Wonka Roof is "Lateral Collateral" V10, a tall and resistant line awaiting a repeat.
🚶♂️ Approach summary - Somewhat rugged. 25 to 35 minutes. 12 minutes to the Insurrection Boulder.
💎 Notable problems - "Insurrection" V3, "Free Kiss" V4, "Sedition" V5, "Radicalized" V6, "Everlasting Gobstopper" V7, "Free Candy" V8, "Rock Candy" V9, "Pop Rocks" V11, "Wonka Bar" V13, "Charlie and the Chocolate Factory" V14
💧 Dry time - The Wonka Cave is almost always dry unless it condenses. Warm wet days after a long stretch of cold. The Lateral Collateral Boulder and Insurrection Boulder dry in 1 to 2 days.
🍂❄️🍃 Seasonal Beta - Best fall to spring. It is humid in the cave over the summer.
🚗 Drive from downtown Fayetteville - 25 minutes
🚗 Drive from Summersville - 18 minutes
🚽 Bathrooms - Pit toilets at the parking area.
📶 Cell phone service - 3/5, okay.
🐶 Dogs - Must be leashed at all times. This is National Park land.
