Though not as impressive or extensive as the nearby quarries of Millstone and Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe nevertheless offers some very worthwhile mid-level climbing (HS to VS) as well as handful of excellent routes further up the scale. Well-protected crack-lines alternate with bold, delicate faces, the latter sometimes being rather eliminate in nature. The situation is agreeably pleasant and those averse to walking will relish an approach time measured in seconds rather than minutes. Yarncliffe’s ease of access, however, has led to above average levels of popularity with large groups of inexperienced climbers, particularly those under the control of Outdoor Education Centres. These groups, in the past, have often top-roped and abseiled in inappropriate footwear, which has unfortunately resulted in considerable wear and tear, especially on the easier climbs. Instructors are kindly asked to make sure their pupils are suitably attired and NOT to set up abseils down the lines of the more popular routes. Note: walking descents are found at the extreme left and right-hand sides of the quarry.
Conditions and Aspect: The orientation ranges from southwest to northwest. Due to its secluded position and plentiful tree cover, Yarncliffe is one of the most sheltered climbing locations in the Peak, which makes it a useful fallback destination on days when it is simply too blustery to climb elsewhere. That said, the right-hand side of the crag remains shaded until late afternoon and is often damp in winter. In general, though, the rock is reasonably fast-drying, though many routes can be sandy after rain as the cliff-top is badly eroded in places.
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