Aarni Velhonoja

pintsistä heilautus hyllyyn?

kutsuva linja. poistuminen kiipeilyä hankalampaa

w/Joonas ja Akseli

lenkkareis

lenkkareis

An approximate line using the easiest holds. Standstart.

Start from sidepull crimps on both sides of the bulgy arete and climb straight up or slightly to the left.

Jugs and hand jams.

Diagonal slab line that starts from Big Red Machine and ends in Tobago Gays.

The burlier brother of Tobago Gays.

Obvious thin hands line on the rightmost side of the crack sector.

extra star for pure aesthetics

2nd go

2nd go

as sit start

Mental slab crux

Obvious crack line. A bit tricky at the top. A *decent route!

climbs well for the grade! liked this one a lot for some reason

a bit tricky, 2nd go

easier the more to the right you adjust your body position

There are probably hundreds of ways to do this... I used a sidepull to the left of the LH starting hold, making the move to the RH sloper feel much easier. This way there's no need for the really powerful heelhook on the RH starting hold. The OG big throw is probably at least 7A.

ss

not really easier than direct?

engaging all the way, especially with all the dusty moss at the top

Used the jug at the lip for the left hand, not sure if it's part of the line. Anyhow the top out is nice and technical, just gotta find the right foothold to use.

This line had been on my mind for a while now, happy I got to give it a good first go:) I found the holds to be way more secure than expected

Very delicate! Eliminated the big blob.

Awkward. Props to Jokinen for sending this in basically hiking boots.

aikas kipakka alku

easier than Savumuuri using the shittiest holds I could find

Topped out Homemuuri as written in the description and drawn in the topo. The grade holds well.

hard! or suboptimal beta. nicely shaped wall though

medium ball

slammed my left arm onto the annoyingly tall tree stump on my first try, can recommend padding it somehow

Double toehooks finally solved this long time project for me in one session. Ss with low right hand.

ihan vitun ahdasta nysväystä mielivaltaisilla eliminaateilla, ah koivusaari

A huge milestone for my fingers and my climbing in general. This line has been on my mind since the very first times I climbed outdoors.

lipesin topin jäisestä krimpistä ekalla yrkällä 😅

mielenkiintoista puuhaa ilman pädejä!

kenties kiven paras reitti

yllättävän hyvin kiipeää! pakkohan tälle on tähti antaa, kun lähimain ei juuri muuta löydy

kiva

2nd go. Starting both hands low on the arete, topping out via left side.

cool gaston! should have gone for the flash, sent first try from the bottom

starting right hand on the arete...?

climbed also the direct finger crack start, same difficulty but more technical

Sooo weird! Double mantle to foot bump finally made this doable, even soft

barefoot no pads :P

The direct topout is nice but makes the elimination even more convoluted than it already is and starts to flirt with the Crankfest '23 line. Nice moves tho.

climbed albarracin start first but I'm taking the flash goddamnit!

very nice mantle

so much fun! also did no hands version

pure board climbing style with perfect landing, nice!

this took some figuring out

viereinen tuntui kolmoselta, tämä ei. ellei sitten mene selkeästi vasemmalta.

Aika kiva. En kiivennyt parhaalla tyylillä, polvet hiukan kolisi. Ens kerralla sit pädin kanssa puhtaammin.

tokal

aika kiva, tuli kiivettyä useaan kertaan. sitti ei lisää vaikeutta. vois olla 5.

mukava (joskin hieman kostea) lopetus kesäiselle lenkkarisooloilusessiolle

best line of the crag imo

one star for the unique rock quality

climbed pygmyrina first

Karrin betalla, toka yrkkä. Tuntu softilta, mutta jos wingspan ei riitä on 7A varmaan enemmän kohdillaan.

sharp but ok route

using some holds from huoltovarmuus.. confusing line but nice topout

full sitstart, felt 6Aish

not a sitstart I assume?

Static big boi beta, just like Kristoffer said. Jumpstart seems more appropriate for the grade so not going to downgrade. 2nd.

Annoying till you get it. Probably morpho.

crouch start from the crimps, one big lock-off move to the slanting horizontal crack and then topout. felt hard enough for the grade for me.

Uumien mittasuhteet oli liian bottom heavy mun makuun

Fun mantle and topout

kausifläsä

Great flow, no distinct crux. Much harder to topout in warmer conditions.

keskellä kesää lipsui aina topista, nyt kevätkitkoilla meni ekalla yrkällä

Could be 6c+, I think I found slightly easier beta

Included the arete, felt maybe easier than 5+

First go but have tried this before

First go, pretty sure I've tried this before though. Maybe 6B, not exactly harder than Tar det lungt.

käyttäen lopussa lipalla hieman piirretyn linjan oikealla puolella olevaa otetta

smear technology

quality problem

not great not terrible

ekalla. ei kyllä menny kovin tyylikkäästi, pitänee kokeilla uudestaan ihan oikeasti savupiiputtaen.

fierljeppeniä hankalampi imo mutta jos oot lyhyempi / osaat kiivetä niin ei välttämättä ole

kusi haisee, kiipee tää nopee!

rehti ja reipas sammakointi, loppua kohti hieman herkistyy

jalkavoitto

spicy topout

nice moves

If the topout alone is 6A, I think this def deserves 6A+ for dat juicy pump

got nice foot beta for the start, stoked!

this one I liked, lower starts not so much

confusing line

Used to struggle with this one in the past, but today it went on second try. Turns out it's just pretty crimpy. I hope it's not meant as a sitstart though...

no bad holds really (maybe the right crack used to be eliminated?)

following the drawn line and eliminating the good holds on "Nina"

topout doesn't quite flow

Varmaan se helpompi tapa topata tosi kiteinen halkeama :D

elämys

shitstart

First. Works L2R as well but is a bit easier.

ss

dat dirt really adds the final + to this

Nicely delicate crux if you stay low. Bigger holds above make this a bit easier. First.

nice climbing for the grade

pretty tough for a 4, but maybe I didn't find the correct holds

6a if starting holds not specified. Getting to the jug from the two crimps below was harder than the dyno.

Awesome mantle!

climbed more directly up than the line shows

update in '24: climbed this twice today and really enjoyed it, one more star

hyh

Eliminated the vertical crack. Tricky start.

1st go. Nice.

harder start than Tessu

ss

fantastic moves once they click

using the first sidepull to start

Using one hold before the lip. Will have to come back for the dyno version.

Kristian on nyt myös mun sankari! Yllättävän hyvä traverse, jota voi halutessaan jatkaa vielä paljon pidemmällekin ja säätää vaikeusastetta oman seikkailunhalunsa mukaan.

Ei jumalauta mikä työmaa

2nd. ss

ss

ss

surprisingly nice crux once you get it

super secret beta!

Long and physical route on good holds. Fun!

delicate topout!

Tricky beginning for me, as always. Cool top out, though a bit mossy.

2nd. Started with left hand in the pocket and mantled a bit right

2nd

2nd

2nd

Tricky start, but apparently not impossible

Love this style. Still unsure whether I topped out correctly, but the beginning is so tricky that it felt good enough for the grade.

first go. ehkä däbäsin, ehkä en.

first move felt stupidly hard. what toehook?

aika korkeella tässä pystyi pitämään jalkojaan siitä huolimatta, että kädet seurasivat reitin viivaa

extra juice!