Carles Martinez

2ng go

I thought I had tried the beginning of this. Harder than the other 6cs in Revenne

With all things considered, this is a lovely climb. Felt hard. Climbed with an extension on the second bolt for maximum enjoyment. Also, if you are lucky enough to get heavy rain when at the base of this route, you will get to witness the most beautiful waterfall in Salo 👌 just try to clean the route before that happens.

What a treat! From a 3stars-stiff-first-part to a full enjoyable no-hands-rest to a flowy second part with different possibilities. Today the right-hand pinch was wet, dripping nonstop, I had to skip it and go for the other beta.

28/07, Flash: I clipped the anchor from the undercling with a short quickdraw.. then I got to the slopper next to the anchor but i did not go to the jug further behind.. not sure what to think about that. 01/08, RedPoint: on my way to sector 5, I met Santeri Vidal and we talked about that top part. It was clear I had to re-try it and push for getting to the jug to not skip a single move on the harder section of the route. I lost a Flash, but I gained a mega cool bold dynamic move using Santeri's beta. Thanks for all the work cleaning and bolting this new crag.

Had to make an extra effort to stay on the overhang as much as possible. Good to try both variations.

I cannot/won't skip holds in my reach for a whole route from bottom to top

Day started with rain and car issues, and it seemed to be going downhill. But then Mai collected plenty of chanterelles, I had a smooth and enjoyable climb on this route, and Tero is now all set for his vacation... and he will likely get some more good cold cuts from Spain soon :D Those belays keep on giving good sends! 🤜🤛

My first route in Nummi, and hopefully not my last.

I found it to be much nicer than what I had heard about it

Hieno reitti. The full no-hands rest doesn't kill the vibe of the climb. Sweaty 2nd go, after not being able to decipher the beta for the three first qd on the first attempt.

Very nice moves. As usual, I'm lucky enough to fall on the last move.. giving me one more chance to enjoy the route. Thanks to Maria for the beta and belays! and thanks to Elina for the quickdraws on the route!

I don't understand enough about grades, but this felt hard.. Amazing route.

Massive props to Tero for being the true warrior. Coming for five sessions to the ledge with all the extra work required to get there and arrange the lead belays. The monumental patience after seeing me falling four times from the move after the last quickdraw and another two times on the literal last move when getting to the ledge under the anchor.. still, proposing to come today after work to finalize the business 🤜🤛 and it worked

cool

mega-mega cool

Wet/moist conditions + Sun nowhere to be seen + cold + premium company = Excellent experience

Keeping the right heel-toe all the way.

2nd go

Very low sitstart ended up being more like back on the ground start. Hand-jamming on the last boulder of an amazing trip with your best friend, felt akin to indulging in one of those delectable homemade desserts during a flawless family dinner. Grande Quintana! El año que viene más.

Heel-hook beta from Quintana fi di win! Triplete y por la noche filete.

The key was the left foot

After 1h of trying to figure out a way to start with both hands in the big hole with a proper start without dab.. i went with left hand on lower part of the lip. gl

looks nice than it climbs. worth it

Viote pepinaco!

2nd go. Very nice to try get it onsight. Enjoyed the fight. More enjoyable on the second attempt when I knew where to go.

3rd go. Day proj. Some sections are bit polished , but it is nice. I would recommend it. Bouldery.

2nd go. People should really brush more after they climb or while they check moves.

Jammin' can be a variety of things. I can think of two main examples: Listening to music and jamming to it: bobbing your head to the beat, headbanging, dancing, etc. Similarly, when crack climbing, the art of hand jamming creates a rhythmic connection with the rock, allowing for a seamless ascent. It's like finding the perfect groove on a climbing route, where the nice flow of jamming all the way enhances the overall climbing experience.

The first attempt was with the quickdraws on several years ago when this was waaay out of my league. Today went on a nice second go.

2nd go. M'hancantat. Ya va tocando aprender a escalar, no?

2nd go. Super cool. You got everything here.. alpine style, sporty style, jugs, crimps, knee bars, fist jam..

very nice. flash info by both Marias

amazing despite the sika on the overhangy section.

Had to work the boulder first. The rest of the route up to the anchor is amaaaazing. Sightseeing type of climbing with some tiny puzzles here and there.

Super nice and enjoyable! Fully guided by MQB after he put up the quickdraws, bcs I forgot almost everything from the flash attempt I had back in Jan2023

2nd go. Hard, quite polished, part of the experience.

The redpoint with more attempts of this trip... I really wanted to avoid the jugs on the right side of the route. So I decided to only climb straight up on the tuffas. My rope got stuck on the tuffa-inverted-spike left of the last bolt on three redpoint attempts!! On the last day of the trip, I climbed this with the only focus on not getting the rope stuck. It was enjoyable, and it felt very easy after so many tries.

Hardest onsight yet. Very nice with nice hold all the way (maybe a bit more difficult to onsight for shorter folks) . Excellent to warm up. I had it as a cool down for the day.

First of the grade. Very nice. I enjoyed working out every single move on this route. Felt hard even after inspecting and executing the most efficient beta for me. Obviously, on the send (third) go I ended up going with a different beta at the end of the cruxy/pumpy sequence.

Third 7a flash :D Beta from Misha. Cruxy but enjoyable all the way and nice moves up there.

Beta from Austris. Cruxy and nice. It was a torture under the sun.. wait for climbing it after 1pm and ir should be way nicer.

First 7a flash. This route doesn't consume any skin, only muscles. Jugs deluxe on roof where the 4th bolt is lower than the 3rd one.

Belayer, use a helmet.

Belayer, use a helmet.

Belayer, use a helmet.

Marathon warm-up :) Calfs workout. Very cool and long.

Guidebook says 6b+ to firt anchor. Soft 6b makes more sense.

Demanding warmup.

Very strong belayer on the other side of the rope

Muy guapa. Climbs way nicer than it looks at first from down there.

Did one way up quickdraw by quickdraw inspecting al moves and pockets and it went on the second go (first serious go).

28m, many quickdraws needed

In some old topos it appears as 7a. It seems that many years ago it had a different line at the beginning for the first couple of bolts ( a bit more to the left).

same anchor as Por placer. 6a In topo book

the upper section on the dihedral is 3stars

~12 draws

nicer than it looks, but 0 stars

lead all the way

with Santtu 👊

sooo good with Santtu 👊

with Marianne and Santtu 👊👊

Felt easier than Lepola.

Solid 6b when you know where to go

Excellent route

super nice climb!

Amazing! would be great to see how is that kantti betta some people mentioned.

Nice warm-up!

2nd go Exciting route!

Went for two pitches.

6a in Finland are usually much harder than this. Enjoyable climb!

6a in Finland are usually much harder than this. Enjoyable climb!

5 if I compare to any other 6a I've done in Finland

4 if I compare to any other 5 I've done in Finland

4 if I compare to any other 5 I've done in Finland

hard? x)

solo to get to the anchor of the 6b+

2nd go. long quickdraw for the second bolt 👌 edit 18/9/2023: looks like the second bolt has been moved to a lower placement. Now it is less risky to climb the route putting up the draws

-

best

finally! without using the right wall. Super wet left kantti and top (as it was with all the previous times I tried this route)

also repeated later with sitstart, felt nicer

troll sit start

going on the crimps to the right side is more like ¿5?, from the sitstart to the left with left hand on left arete and right hand on the pinches then it feels 6b and a 3 stars problem

did also a sitstart version that ended up been nicer than expected

dabbing a bit 🙄

6c in the topo book. felt like hard 6c

from the 'shitty' holds

2nd go. para bulderetas

buenísimo inicio

a la tercera va la vencida..

buena

wet

decided to do a double knee-bar on this hannamontana for the lols during my first go, and ended up falling 🥲

'ta guai

quite wet

nice

Day project, 4th go. End of the day, epic bubbly clouds with the orangy colors of the sunset, thunders, blood, sweat, screams and two friends cheering from the ground. My first 7a+ sport climb ended up being my most epic send ever

2nd go, nice warm up

2nd go , damn, super nice route

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where can we get more of these holds in Finland?

hyvä

my right wrist.. :( worth it

👍

i tried full ss 😅

Super hyvä

Finally! When you know the proper beta it is quite ok 👌

pretty soft

nice moves, better jugs. Bouldery

ta' bien + 2nd go, well bolted two stars are for the crux

pegazo

Amazing.

on the firs try, but I've done wildchild before. Different style, but same difficulty as Wildchild for me

'ta bien el perro este

'ta bien.

merengue

a tope con el balance

midnight climbing, empty crag. Bouldery route :D

staying on the main face of the route all time felt like a hard 6c, but super cool boulder move and the balance part at the end

mainly small cams and nuts

proly the most enjoyable route of the right side of the wall. Bit tricky to start from the water (spoiler: there is a hidden foothold under the water level for the start)

this is not a 4+ if you are starting from the water

6b+?

thx Marjut and Marianne for the cams 😂✌🏽

'ta bien

First try: wtf Second try: mmh, makes sense Third go it worked

a bit sketchy if you go only with nuts