King Ho Wong

Team send on this one with Martin! He found a new beta for the crux by taking the left hand a bit further out as a slopey sidepull and right hand on the decent sloper sidepull, but instead of deadpointing from the right start foot we just placed a right heel further to the right before going to the good crimp behind the tree 😅 Less technical this way and more burly perhaps, but still cool! The top was pretty spicy as our lights died one after another 🤣 We spent more time on this one than Hjerterått and both felt they were similar in grade, albeit completely different climbs. Puslespillet is more technical and dependent on friction and body position. Although the top is not hard, you still have to keep a level head, another classic for this area! Props to Sensei for figuring this one out with Trond!

What an evening! Martin and I decided to go for a night session after work and I ended up doing this gem of a boulder on the first go (after pumping out on the top part two days earlier). I had an idea for a different beta for the top and warmed up on said idea: From the left finger jam and right sloper shoulder, you cross as usual with your left hand to the good crimp, but instead of bumping the left again to a higher flat crimp or matching the first, you just keep the jug crimp step up your right foot on a slightly higher foot and just stretch your right hand to the lip. With all the new beta I feel 7C feels right, especially if I consider other 7Cs and 7C+s I've done 😅 Regardless of the grade this is a super cool line that climbs really well! It has heel hooks, toe hooks, slopers, crimps, jams and even a crucial kneebar! Not easy to grade a FA, so props to Sensei for sussing this one out 🙏

Fourth ascent? What a mega pinch! 😍😍😍

First 7A after the surgery! A burly boulder revolving around a left undercut, suited my injured shoulder just fine 😅

Finally! Did all the moves on my first session, but the crux was to link the sit with the stand. Did it on my first go today, climbed horribly though! I think I lost my feet on every move it was possible to lose your feet :P Not pretty, but very satisfied that I held on and sent despite my feet popping all over the place. Very cool, steep and physical boulder by Tarjei Hamre!

Sharp! Crimping on crystal crimps. Ouch!

2nd. ascent. He just can't help it, FA-Grisen was supposed to have a calm and cosy family day out in the woods, but he still got time to sniff out a FA :P A right variation of Krutt i lankene (E). Sit start as for Krutt i lankene, but instead of going with your right hand to the good crystal crimp, cross your left hand to it, and then up. Sharp, but cool!

Sweet addition by the one and only FA-Grisen! Cool and technical compression moves at the start, and then a high and easy slab finish to top it off. A bit spicy top-out because of dead leaves and dirt on the holds before the top :P Sensei finally did his big project today! Ville Vesten at Cowboyveggen :D

Such a cool and proud line with fun and interesting moves, put up by Runar Strong :) After looking closer at the topo pictures and a beta video, we discovered that a relatively big chunk of the wall had broken off, taking with it the left hand crimp just before the right hand three finger slot ;)Now you have to go farther left with your left hand on a good crimp and do a big move with a right drop knee to the slot. Still a 7C+ I think :)

Krimporamatraversen felt like crimp training outside, perfect for people who loves to close that crimp 🤣✊🤣 Felt hard after doing Kongeveien, sore tips made me slip on that one slopey sidepull and the slabby top out 🤣 Great day out climbing with Martin Lund! 💪

The Giddy Edge of Light is in my humble opinion the coolest boulder in Østmarka; Proud, clean and climbs like a dream: Toehooks all the way, just as I like it 🤩🤩🤩 Warmed up on the last moves, and then did it first go today, very satisfying as I pumped out on the last possible move last time 🤣 This gem of a boulder would have been a world class problem anywhere in the world 🙌💎🙌 Must do in the Oslo area!

Almost first go, but some water dripped on me while I climbed on the first try so I had moist tips :P Honestly, the extension didn't really add that much to the grade, felt like at most a very soft 7C for me, but this boulder really suits me, so who knows :P The two boulders I was most looking forward to try were wet. They looked very neat, so must come back and try them! :D

And finally the toecam stuck! Such a powerful and cool one! Felt pretty good today, and the boulder went down on the third or fourth try. Felt good to feel that I'm slowly feeling stronger again! Just took a pandemic :P Thanks to the one and only Zen Viking for the spot and support! Super nice day in the sun and cold :D

Cool roof climbing! Didn't feel in shape, so glad this one went down ;) Cut my feet too often, though! Have to be better at keeping my feet :P

Neat, but sharp little traverse. Not 8A for my height, but if you're a little shorter than me (173cm) I can understand this feels more like 8A. Took me way too many sessions, I guess it's the price you pay for bad pump :P

My style. Left hand on jug undercling, right on slopey pinch sidepull. Then left to the slopey flattish hold.

Cool move and totally my style. Just straight biceps powah! Crank the right crimp and lock the left bicep :P Did all the boulders on this rock except for Vinterfriksjon, tried it after doing this one, but my skin was destroyed and it felt impossible to hang on those sharp Østmarka slopers :P

Super cool compression boulder! Too bad it's a bit sharp, big moves and toehooks, me like a lot! Started with left hand on the good crimp and right hand on the lowest part on the arete. Sweet moves! :) Sit next ;)

Don't know if I started it properly, but started with left on a slopey half pad crimp and right hand on a positive half pad crimp, left foot on the corner, and kicked my right foot into a good toehook and right hand to a nice sloper, really fun climbing! Felt like a solid 7A+ starting this way :) Sit next ;)

So good to tick off this one on the end of a long climbing day! Totally my anti-style, body positioning and left shoulder press. Need to train more on this style for sure! Link to video: https://www.instagram.com/p/B_6wnRNjhCT/?igshid=14tah2ymraoty

Yes! Super cool boulder on smooth rock! Another great addition to Østmarka by the one and only: FA-Grisen :P Link to video: https://www.instagram.com/p/B_6wnRNjhCT/?igshid=14tah2ymraoty

Yes! New PB flash! Would love to say it was a 7C flash, but felt more like a low end 7B+, pretty cool honest boulder with straight on crimping :) Link to video: https://www.instagram.com/p/B_6wnRNjhCT/?igshid=14tah2ymraoty

Old classic and maybe the first boulder of its grade in Norway, FA by Marius Morstad? This boulder suited me well: just crank down on some small crimps and then a big launch to a smooth sloper. One mover, and doesn't even top out, old-school indeed! I kinda liked it :P I wonder if it would be possible to top it out? Have to bring a rope and check it out!

Super nice boulder deep in the forest of Østmarka! FA by Mikkel Morstad. Nice traverse to the left and up the arete via a cool poolcket :) I went left hand to the arete, then right hand to the pocket. Very cool and physical climbing. Loads of hard stuff left on this sector!

Sweet climb! First move crux, big deadpoint to a good shoulder, and then some easier climbing to the top :) 2nd ascent. FA by the one and only FA-Grisen :P

Cool warm-up :) 2nd ascent. FA by the one and only FA-Grisen :P

Wow! Glad we decided to brush and clean this little gem at the end of the day! It started getting late and we were seriously considering heading home, but fortunately we ended up doing this super cool steep compression boulder. Really physical with cool compression moves, slopers, pinches and toehooks and heels! So fun! One of my coolest FAs for sure :D Recommended if you're in the area or on your way to or from Nissedal.

Boom! Finally figured out the feet for this Østmarka classic! Low end 7C+, at least for people who can climb, for me it took some time to figure out the body position and feet for the crux move :P Super nice climbing on this one, proud and clean, just as I like 'em ;) Trust those shitty feet :P Thanks to Sharma for a very nice day out climbing!

Sensei AKA FA-Grisen brushed this one since he needed something new to warm up on. Same start as Bølerbandittene ss, but tops direct on nice obvious crimps, instead of to the left as the original line. Doesn't feel like an elimination and climbs nice :) felt slightly harder than Bølerbandittene ss. Not sure if this is even a new line, maybe someone knows? Nice addition to this sector either way :D

YEEES! Finally this gem of Østmarka went down today. Perfect conditions made even the sharp crimps a dream to climb on. Should have done this classic a long time ago, I've fallen about 8-9 times after the crux, on the technical 7A/+-ish top out because of wrong beta and poor climbing :P today I tried the top (with the help of a ladder) a couple of times to find out what I needed to do to top out this line, once I did, it went easy :D super happy with this one, climbs so nice, not to mention proud and clean :) Thanks and kudos to Sensei for the FA, micro beta and spot, and Trond for the vid! Let's hope more days like this in the future! :D

Not everyday I can grab a FA in front of the mighty FA-Grisen :P This one suited me well, though: Left biceps lock, right hand pinch, jug feet and a tight left heel :P Just power through without any finesse, that's my style :P Cool little boulder with fun moves on very smooth rock. Too bad it's not a bit higher! Cool addition to Nissedal :D Link to video: https://www.instagram.com/p/BoE-7rLBT23/

Epic last go best go push on this straight up variation of this classic Lofoten boulder! Had the sequence dialled, just had to muster the last power reserves I had to top this gem out. Happy ending to a brilliant trip to Lofoten. Magical place!

Super classic! Thin skin, a bit hot and lots of mosquitos :P a little bit of wind was the saving factor for this send! Super nice compression moves on pretty smooth holds. Maybe I'll try the variation straight up if my skin allows it :) thanks for the spot and support Trond and Baby :D

Broke a hold on the flash :P Same starting holds as Den Flygende Kineser, but traverse to the right and straight up on some jugs. Not the nicest line, but OK warm up...

2nd ascent. Same starting holds as Den Flygende Kineser and Den Snikende Kineseren, but traverse to the right and up the arete, then traverse back to the left to the flake you jump to on Den Flygende Kineser. Nice warm up :) FA by Øyvind.

Wow! Super cool catch! Brushed this and did it on the same session. Sorry Sensei for snatching this FA from you :P Start on obvious starting holds, high left foot and right foot smear, then a jump to the lip to a supercool flake. Taking the swing is the crux and it's so cool! A great feeling and a super feelgood boulder! Happy with this one ;) Thanks to Sensei for convincing me this line was cool after all :P

Super cool technical dieder! Delicate footwork and a super cool finish with a jump to the lip! Pure class :D 3rd ascent? Kenneth did the FA, but with a different beta.

YES! Supernemesis boulder finally done! So happy! Had at least 20 sessions on this one before it yielded. Hard and cool moves. Had three betas and switched between them all, but settled on Hannahs dropknee-beta. Had really no expectations of doing this one today, had sore skin and was quite thrashed from a three hour villmark-session yesterday, but somehow managed to scramble my way to the top :P Happy, happy! Once again cred to Øyvind for the FA!

Nice boulder that suited me pretty well! Nice jump move and topping out on an easy and high slab :) did this gem on the second session of the first day at Hasvåg. Needed to wait for the cool evening temps and did it on the second go after some dinner and beer :P sweet boulder and a beautiful setting! :D thanks to Sensei, Rolf and Trond for spot and support!

Wow, this one suited me to a tee! Did Akkurat Der today at noon-ish, and went back to this one after a big dinner and some beer. Took me 15-20 minutes :) had the Danish beta: both feet smearing on the rail and then crossed my left hand to the sloper on the rail ;) thanks to Sensei for spot and support! :D

Another super classic from Fosen! Climbs so nice! One of my favourites in Harbak. Thanks to Kenneth for the efficient beta for the start :)

World class! Burly compression climbing out a roof and straight out the arete. So cool! First session two days ago I fell on the easy top out, today I did it first go :) Happy! Thanks to Mehmet and Øyvind for support and spot! Ørnenuten next! Did all the moves, felt possible ;)

Did the sit pretty fast after I did the stand, didn't really add that much from the sit in my opinion. Did it with a right hand pinch and toe hook on the arete and not matching the shoulder hold as per usual? Dunno, felt my beta was the easiest way into the stand, at least for me ;) I think the stand is nicer, but the sit is fun, too! Completed all the lines I wanted to do at Grevling. Sweet! Tommy boy is so close on the stand start, you'll do it next time! :D

Yes! So good to finally do the top from the sit: The stand start ended up being the redpoint crux for me coming from the sit ;) Did it with the funky getcha jump beta! So cool this way! Supercred to Øyvind for envisioning and showing me this beta! Suited me to a tee ;) Probably stuck this jump move 14-15 times before I could do the top :P Don't know about the grade, maybe easier with this beta? But same, same! Supercool boulder :D

Sweeeeeeeeet! Managed to fall off four times at the exact same 6Aish-move after the crux last time I tried this gem... This time we arrived at Høyspenning exhausted after trying Mathematica for 2-3 hours first :P This time I could barely do the crux move, but when I first stuck it, I topped out the boulder, haha, climbing is so strange sometimes :P Difficult to grade because the crux move is so specific, but what does it matter when the boulder is so nice? Thanks to Øyvind for cleaning this right version of the line, and Kenneth for the FA! I also need to thank T-Rex for his patience, support and microbeta, I couldn't have done it without you, T! The direct version next! :D

Could be 7B+, climbs nice, but pretty ugly boulder to be honest :P

What a line! Finally figured out and executed the moves on the stand, and then did the sit :) World class boulder!

YES! Little Joy gave me big joy :P Even nicer than the stand, if that's possible ;) Would be a classic anywhere in the world! Thanks to the getcha couple 11&Hannah for the support and relentless cheering to get me on top this beautiful boulder! One of the best I've done for sure! HAPPY! :D

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAH! Adrenaline rush when I stood ontop this beauty! Gotta love those tiny crimps :P Had to work hard for this one, especially the first move, which was a bit techy for me. Once I stuck it today, it went down. For sure the hardest boulder I've done. Super cred to Øyvind for the FA and finding and cleaning this cool boulder, which literally hid under his nose for a loooong time, what a sneaky boulder! :P 3rd ascent. Happy, happy! Sit is going to be sooo HARD :D

Nice boulder, tried it couple of times before, but couldn't stick the swing. Felt quite easy today. Sweet! :D

World class prow/roof! Did it with a toehook and not with the 8A-beta :P Epic top-out: My heel hook slipped and I humped my way to the top :P Happy! :D

Super nice! Three days of trying and suddenly the move stuck! Beautiful line regardless of the grade. Soooooo HAPPY now :D

Technical one move wonder. Felt easy today for some reason :) 7B+?

Starts with both hands in undercling jug underneath a small roof, then a sloper with your left hand, then right toe hook and left heel hook. Proceed to match and traverse up to the left on a slopey arete. Keep your toe on! ;)

My first FA, and not a bad one at that ;) Starts to the left of Sensei and climbs right into the top-out of Sensei via some cool shoulder moves. Suprisingly nice :D

This would be a classic anywhere in the world. Beautiful line with super rock quality! Not to mention this beauty is a super nice compression boulder with heel hooks, toe hooks and big slaps on big pinches and slopers. Climbs so nice! Third ascent :) SS next :D

Yeeeah! Finally! Worked a lot on this beauty and finally it went down today :P Should have done this a long time ago when I stood on the slab ready to top out, but my foot slipped on a wet foothold... Haven't been able to get that far again until today. Happy, happy! :D Thanks to Trond for the lift, spot and support!

Yaaay! Real battle to do this one! The try before the send I pumped out on the jug! Punt of the trip :P Super classic!

Sooooo nice! Beautiful roof with perfect finishing slopermoves! Right crimp was wet (as it usually is...) and almost fell off from the last move cause my right tips were damp :P Thanks to the family of three, Knudsen-Sæter, for great support! :D

This must be my most surreal and epic send ever: Drove out towards Apremont Envers in the dark from Maison Bleau in the rain (light to medium drizzle), hope and psyke went gradually down as we approached our goal: Everything seemed wet... But as we parked the car the rain stopped. We walked in, and just as we arrived at the boulder, the rain started again! With no time to spare I chalked up, put on my climbing shoes, warmed up on the last few moves and sat down to try from the start. Everything flowed, it was dark, and I couldn't even see the crucial foothold, my left foot just found it and I plunged for the top sloperjug and somehow I stuck the move. The top out was semi wet and I was afraid to slip, but made it! Such a great feeling! Huge thanks and mad props to father and son Sæter who cleaned, chalked up and covered the holds from the rain, provided light, support and happy thoughts! Never ever even said it couldn't be done even as we drove out in the rain. Couldn't have done it without you! :-D <3

Long one :) Cool line :D

Pumpy :D

Left heel :D Classic :)

Low start of Lapin light. Felt a bit soft, but suited me well: Heel/toe lock FTW :D Great day out with the boys!

Wow. What a line! Falling from the last move so many times, but when it finally stuck, it was super sweeeet! Friction was great. Thanks a lot to the usual suspects :D My first 7C+ :)

A fine line with good movements :) Did it with a heel hook ;) Had great conditions today! Le Friction! :D

Le nice! Finally :) Not so hard after I found the beta :) Thanks to Ø for cleaning and support :D

Le oooooui! :) The nicest line I've done in Oslo so far. Thanks to Sensei for beta :)

Don't really think the sit is that much harder than the stand... Max a grade in difference. Didn't use the crack.

Feels more like a 6C+ to me... Didn't use the crack.

:) Thanks, guys, for all the support and beta :P

Sweeeet! My first 7C :D Super nice boulder with cool hard moves :) Big thanks to Mehmet and Tarjei :)